Appetizer Recipes 2

Glamorgan Sausages
Greek Cheese Pastries (Tiropites)
Greek Fish Roe Dip (Taramosalata)
Greek Fried Cheese (Saganaki)
Greek Garlic Dip (Skordalia)
Greek Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmathes)
Guacamole
Guadalajara-Style Tostadas (Tostadas Tapatías)
Hawaiian Poke
Herbed Brie in Pastry
Irish Oat Cakes
Japanese Beef Rolls (Negi Maki)
Liptauer Cheese
Matambre (Stuffed Rolled Flank Steak)
Mozzarella in Carrozza
Mussels Mariniere
Olives in Bacon
Oysters Rockefeller
Peruvian Grilled Beef Hearts (Anticuchos)
Peruvian Potatoes in Cheese Sauce (Papas a la Huancaina)
Philippine Shrimp and Sweet Potato Fritters (Ukoy)
Potato Pierogi
Potato Skins
Potted Shrimp
Quiche Lorraine
Roasted Garlic Bruschetta
Rumaki
Russian Beef Tongue with Horseradish Sauce (Kholodnyi Iazyk s Khrenom)
Shrimp Cocktail
Shrimp Toast
Shrimp Tostadas
Spanish Potatoes in Aioli (Patatas Alioli)
Spanish Sausages in Sherry (Salchichas al Jerez)
Spanish Scallop Empanadas (Empanadas de Vieiras)
Steak Tartare
Steamed Clams
Swedish Crab Canapés (Krabbsmorgas)
Swedish Spring Sandwiches (Varsm Rgasar)
Tabbouleh
Texas Caviar
The Chef's Favorite Clam Dip
Tomato and Basil Crostini
Tomato Aspic
Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna
Tuscan Bean and Tuna Antipasto (Fagioli Toscanelli)
Uruguayan Beef Tongue Vinaigrette (Lengua a la Vinagreta)
Welsh Rabbit
West African Avocado Stuffed with Smoked Fish
Zucchini Mini-Pizzas

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Just as Welsh rabbit contains no rabbit, these Welsh specialties contain no meat. Use Caerphilly cheese if you can get it, but any semi-firm cheese such as Jarlsburg, Gouda, or Monterey Jack cheese will do just fine.

Glamorgan Sausages

2 1/2 cups (625 ml) fresh bread crumbs
5 oz (150 g) grated Caerphilly or other semi-firm cheese
1 small leek, white and tender green part, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 eggs
2tsp (10 ml) powdered English mustard
About 3 Tbs (45 ml) milk
All-purpose flour for dredging
About 2 Tbs (30 ml) butter

Combine the bread crumbs, cheese, leek, parsley, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Whisk together the eggs and mustard and add half the mixture to the bread crumbs, stirring to combine. Add enough milk to bind the mixture and form into 8 sausage-shaped rolls. Dip the sausages in the reserved egg and roll in the flour to coat evenly. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes. Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and fry the sausages until golden brown on all sides. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 8.

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These crispy little pies are served in just about every home, restaurant, and taverna in Greece. If using frozen phyllo dough, thaw it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator overnight.

Greek Cheese Pastries (Tiropites)

8 oz (225 g) ricotta or cottage cheese
8 oz (225 g) feta cheese, crumbled
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3/4 lb (340 g) phyllo dough (about 20 sheets)
1/2 lb (225 g) butter, melted

Mix together the cheeses, eggs, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cut the phyllo sheets crosswise into 3 rectangles. Place a rectangle on a work surface and gently brush with melted butter. Place 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the cheese mixture in one corner. Fold the rectangles in half lengthwise to cover the cheese mixture. Fold the corner with the cheese mixture diagonally to make a point, and continue folding and rolling the triangle until the entire piece of dough is wrapped around the filling. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. (The tiropites may be frozen at this point and baked directly from the freezer.) Place on a lightly greased baking sheet and brush with melted butter. Bake in a preheated 425F (220C) oven until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes about 60.

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Some people, myself included, find it hard to begin a Greek meal without the following appetizer. In many restaurants in Greece, a plate of taramosalata is placed on the table and diners dip into it at will throughout the meal.

Greek Fish Roe Dip (Taramosalata)

6 to 8 slices stale white bread, crusts removed
6 oz (175 g) tarama* (carp roe)
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped onion
1 1/2 to 2 cups (375 to 500 ml) finest quality
extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 2 or more lemons
Crackers, bread, or raw vegetables for dipping

* Available in finer supermarkets and Middle Eastern specialty shops. Salmon roe may be substituted in this recipe.
Soak the bread in water for 5 minutes. Squeeze out as much water as possible and place in an electric blender or food processor. Add the tarama, the onion, and a little of the oil, and process on high speed, adding the oil in a thin stream until a smooth, cream colored paste is formed. Add the lemon juice to taste. The consistency of taramosalata is a matter of personal taste, some cooks preferring it thinner and some thicker. Serve in a bowl with crackers, bread, or raw vegetables for dipping. Makes about 3 cups.

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The Swiss have fondue, the Mexicans have queso fundido, and the Greeks have saganaki. A visit to a Greek restaurant anywhere in the world is likely to feature waiters setting this dish ablaze and parading it through the room, accompanied by an appreciative "OPA!" from the guests.

Greek Fried Cheese (Saganaki)

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1 egg, well beaten
1 tsp (5 ml) flour
1/2 lb (250 g) kasseri cheese* sliced 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick
2 Tbs (30 ml) brandy
Juice of 1/2 lemon

*Available in finer supermarkets and Middle Eastern specialty shops. Parmesan or Romano cheese may be substituted.
Heat the butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat. Beat the egg and flour together, and dip the slices of cheese slices in the mixture. Fry until well browned on both sides. Remove from the heat and add the brandy. Carefully ignite the brandy with a match, and shake the skillet until the flame is extinguished. Squeeze the lemon juice over the cheese and serve from the skillet along with crusty bread. Serves 6 to 8.

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This ancient Greek dish is not only used as a dip and spread, but is often used as a sauce for meats as well. It makes a wonderful dip for parties that you won't find at every get-together you attend this holiday season.

Greek Garlic Dip (Skordalia)

6 slices whole wheat or white bread, crusts removed
1/2 cup (125 ml) mashed potatoes
7 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped walnuts or almonds
1 cup (250 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) lemon juice (or to taste)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Soak the bread in water, then squeeze it to remove as much water as possible. Combine it with the potatoes, garlic, and nuts in an electric food processor and process until it becomes a smooth paste. With the processor running, add the olive oil in a thin stream. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve with pita bread and/or raw vegetables for dipping. Makes about 3 cups (750 ml).

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This dish from Greece is also found everywhere else in the Middle East, and everyone claims it as their own.

Greek Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmathes)

4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/3 cup (80 ml) uncooked rice
3/4 cup (180 ml) water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) pine nuts (pignoli), toasted
2 Tbs (30 ml) dried currants or raisins
40 preserved grape leaves*
Lemon wedges for garnish

* Preserved grape leaves can be found in jars or cans in finer supermarkets and Middle Eastern specialty shops.
Heat half the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion and garlic until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes. Add the water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer tightly covered for 15 minutes, until the rice is tender. Add the pine nuts and currants. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the grape leaves. Remove from the heat immediately and allow to sit for 1 minute. Drain the grape leaves and rinse in cold water. Separate the leaves and pat dry with paper towels. Layer the bottom of a heavy baking dish with 10 of the grape leaves. Place about 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the rice mixture on each of the remaining 30 grape leaves and roll up burrito fashion, folding the sides of the leaves over the filling as you roll to make compact tight bundles. Place the rolled leaves seam side down in the baking dish and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Add a few tablespoons of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer tightly covered for 45 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with lemon wedges. Serves 6 to 8.

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I doubt that any two dishes of guacamole have ever been exactly the same, with every cook having his or her own version. Here is a basic recipe which you can modify and personalize at will.

Guacamole

2-3 ripe avocados, peeled and mashed
1 medium tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
2-3 canned serrano chiles*, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
Juice of 1 lime
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

* Available in finer supermarkets and Latin specialty shops.
Combine all ingredients and mix well. Place in a serving bowl and cover tightly if not serving immediately. Serve with tortilla chips for dipping. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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Tostadas are corn tortillas that have been fried crisp and topped with just about anything. In Mexico small, individual tortillas would be used, but elsewhere a handful of corn chips makes an excellent substitute.

Guadalajara-Style Tostadas (Tostadas Tapatías)

3 chorizo sausages*
2 cups (500 ml) refried beans, canned or recipe below
24 4-inch (10 cm) corn tortillas, or 12 4-inch (20 cm) corn tortillas, fried crisp, or a small handful of prepared corn chips per person
2 cups (500 ml) shredded lettuce
Red wine vinegar to taste
Olive oil to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 onion, finely chopped
1-2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, and chopped
1-2 tomatoes, chopped

* Available in most American supermarkets and at Hispanic specialty shops

Remove the casing from the chorizo and brown the meat in a skillet over moderate heat, breaking the meat into small pieces as it cooks. Heat the refried beans. Divide the fried tortillas or corn chips between 4 to 6 individual serving plates and top with the beans followed by the chorizo. Toss the lettuce with vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper, and place on top of the chorizo. Garnish with onion, avocados, and tomatoes. Serves 4 to 6.

Refried Beans

2 Tbs (30 ml) bacon drippings or vegetable oil
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin
3 cups (750 ml) cooked and drained pinto beans
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Grated Monterey jack or Cheddar cheese

Heat the fat in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic and cumin for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the beans and mash with a potato masher or fork until thoroughly mashed. Season with salt and pepper and simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve topped with grated cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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In Hawaii you will likely see this dish called "ahi poke," (AH-hee POE-kay) with "ahi" being the Hawaiian word for "tuna," and "poke" meaning "to cut up" or "to slice." Traditionally the dish consisted of little more than chopped raw fish with maybe a little seaweed and salt for flavoring, but nowadays any of a variety of ingredients can be added for flavor and texture, as my recipe indicates.

Hawaiian Poke

Basic poke:
1 lb (450 g) high quality raw tuna, cut into 1/2-inch
(1 cm) cubes
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce, or to taste
1 tsp (5 ml) sesame oil, or to taste
1-2 scallions (spring onions), green part only, finely chopped

Optional seasonings:
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) grated fresh ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) oyster sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) toasted sesame seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped daikon
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped macadamia nuts
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
Garlic chile sauce or other hot sauce to taste

Combine the tuna with the soy sauce, sesame oil, scallions, and any of the optional ingredients and toss to combine. Serve immediately or refrigerate for no more than 2 hours. Serves 4 to 6.

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Brie cooked in pastry has been a popular party item for the past few years, and I even saw the "BAM" guy on TV do a recipe for it recently. This recipe adds some sophistication with the use of fresh herbs, and takes advantage of frozen puff pastry that should be in everyone's freezer.

Herbed Brie in Pastry

1 wheel (about 18 ounces, 500 g) ripe Brie cheese
2 large shallots, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh chives
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh tarragon
1 Tbs (15 ml) dry white wine or vermouth
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 sheet (about 9 ounces, 250 g) frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, beaten

Cut off and discard the top rind of the Brie. Combine the shallots, herbs, wine, and pepper in a small bowl and press firmly over the top of the cheese. Roll out the pastry dough on a lightly floured surface to make a 10-inch (25 cm) square. Place the pastry over the cheese and fold it under the cheese to enclose it completely. Turn the cheese over and press the pastry seams together. Turn right side up and brush with the beaten egg. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.

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These cakes are traditionally eaten buttered, with a glass of milk, for supper, but they are also good with fish such as herring or mackerel. They are also a wonderful accompaniment to wine and cheese, and make a tasty vehicle for caviar and sour cream for the occasional splurge.

Irish Oat Cakes

2 cups (500 ml) oatmeal
1/2 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1 cup (250 ml) warm water

Mix the oatmeal, flour, and salt together. Slowly add the warm water. Roll out on a floured surface to a thickness of about 1/4 inch (5 mm) and cut into 6 or 8 triangles. Cook in a lightly greased skillet until golden on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Place on a baking sheet and bake in a cool 300F (150C) oven until crisp, about 30 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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These tasty little rollups are sophisticated enough to serve at a formal party, and easy enough to whip up for a child's birthday party.

Japanese Beef Rolls (Negi Maki)

1 lb (450 g) boneless beef sirloin steak, trimmed of fat
6-8 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts,
cut into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) sake
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar

Place the beef in the freezer for about 20 minutes to make it easier to slice, and then cut into about 16 thin slices. Pound the slices between plastic wrap to form pieces of uniform thinness. Wrap each slice of meat around 2 or 3 of the pieces of scallion and secure with toothpicks. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and place the rollups, seam side down, in the hot oil. Shake the pan and cook the rollups on all sides until the beef is no longer red. Add the remaining ingredients and continue cooking, shaking the pan to cook the rollups on all sides and to coat them with the sauce. Remove the toothpicks before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic Austrian cheese spread is traditionally served with rye or pumpernickel bread, but you might update it by serving raw vegetables to dip.

Liptauer Cheese

8 oz (250 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped onion
1 Tbs (15 ml) anchovy paste or finely chopped anchovies
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped capers
1/2 tsp (2 ml) caraway seeds
1/2 tsp (2 ml) paprika

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and stir with a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined. Serve with rye or pumpernickel bread, crackers, or fresh vegetables. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml) to serve 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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This dish takes me back to my younger days in Montevideo, Uruguay. The name means "kill hunger" and it is usually served cold as an appetizer, but it can also be served as a main dish, either hot or cold.

Matambre (Stuffed Rolled Flank Steak)

1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) flank steak
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
1/2 tsp (2 ml) crushed hot red pepper
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
About 1 cup (250 ml) fresh spinach leaves
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and halved lengthwise
1/4 cup (60 ml) sliced pimiento-stuffed green olives
4 cups (1 L) beef stock

Butterfly the flank steak by slicing it in half horizontally to within about 1/2 inch (1 cm) of the edge. Open the steak and pound with a mallet to a uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch (5 mm). Sprinkle with garlic, oregano, red pepper, salt, and pepper. Cover with spinach leaves, leaving about 1/2 inch (1 cm) uncovered around the edges. Arrange the carrot, onion, eggs, and olives on top of the spinach. Roll in the direction of the grain to form a log and tie at 1-inch (3 cm) intervals with kitchen twine. Place in a baking dish and add the beef stock. Cover tightly and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the beef is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Remove the twine, cut into thin slices, and serve with the pan juices. Alternately, the matambre may be cooked in enough stock or water to cover, cooled in the cooking liquid, drained, refrigerated, and cut into thin slices to be served cold. Serves 4 to 6 as a main dish, or 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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These little sandwiches, called "mozzarella in a carriage" because they resemble little cartwheels, are an elegant variation on the grilled cheese sandwich.

Mozzarella in Carrozza

1 loaf French or Italian bread, cut into 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick slices
1 lb (450 g) fresh mozzarella cheese
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) dry bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 eggs, lightly beaten with 2 Tbs (30 ml) milk
Vegetable oil for frying

Cut the bread into 3-inch (8 cm) rounds using a cookie cutter or the rim of a small glass. Cut the mozzarella into slices 1/4-inch (5 mm) thick and slightly smaller in diameter than the bread slices. Make sandwiches of the bread and cheese and briefly dip each into the milk. Season the bread crumbs with salt and pepper. Seal the edges of the sandwiches by pressing them gently, and coat thoroughly with the bread crumbs, rolling the sandwiches in the bread crumbs like a cartwheel to coat the edges. Heat the oil to 375F (190C) in a deep fryer or large skillet. Dip the sandwiches in the egg mixture and fry in the hot oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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Here is a classic dish in which the wine acts as the primary cooking liquid rather than just as a flavoring agent.

Mussels Mariniere

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter or olive oil
6 shallots, chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
3-4 quarts (3-4 L) live mussels, scrubbed and bearded
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley

Heat the butter in a large heavy pot over moderate heat and saute the shallots and garlic until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the mussels and cook tightly covered, shaking the pot occasionally, until the mussels' shells open, 5 to 8 minutes. Discard any unopened shells. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and spoon the mussels (shells and all) and liquid into serving bowls. Serves 4 to 6.

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James Beard began his cooking career catering cocktail parties in New York City, and his first book was titled "Hors d'Oeuvres and Canapes," so I refer to him often when I am looking for an interesting recipe for Monday's edition of your favorite recipezine. This is an hors d'oeuvre with an unusual and surprisingly appealing combination of flavors and textures.

Olives in Bacon

24-32 large pimiento-, almond-, or jalapeño-stuffed olives
6-8 slices bacon, cut into four pieces

Wrap each olive in a piece of bacon and secure with a toothpick. Bake in a preheated 450F (230C) oven until the bacon is crisp, about 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic American dish was created by Chef Jules Alciatore for Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans in 1899. The recipe is still a secret, and the restaurant insists that the cooked greens it uses do not include spinach. Nonetheless, every recipe I have ever seen for this dish calls for spinach. You can experiment with other greens if you like, and who knows, you may stumble upon the secret formula. Here's my version.

Oysters Rockefeller

12 fresh, raw oysters on the half shell
1 cup (250 ml) cooked, finely chopped spinach
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry bread crumbs
2 Tbs (30 ml) cooked, finely chopped bacon
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Hot pepper sauce, to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) melted butter
1 Tbs (15 ml) Pernod or other anise flavored liqueur (optional)

Place the oyster shells on a baking sheet that has a layer of rock salt to stabilize the shells. Place an oyster on each shell. Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine thoroughly. Spoon the spinach mixture over the oysters. Bake for about 10 minutes in a preheated 450F (225C) oven. Serve immediately. Serves 2.

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This is probably the most famous Peruvian dish of all. Beef hearts are readily available in U.S. supermarkets, even if a special order has to be placed with your butcher.

Peruvian Grilled Beef Hearts (Anticuchos)

1 beef heart (about 4 lbs, 2 kg)
16 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 Tbs (15 ml) red or green hot chili peppers, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) red wine vinegar

For the sauce:
1/4 cup (60 ml) dried hot red pepper (hontaka)
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground annatto (achiote) seeds*
1 Tbs (15 ml) vegetable oil
Salt to taste

* Available in finer supermarkets and Latin American specialty shops.
Trim the heart of fat and sinew and cut into 1 inch (2 cm) cubes. Place the heart pieces in a large bowl and add the garlic, hot peppers, cumin, salt, pepper, and vinegar. Add more vinegar if necessary to cover. Marinate refrigerated 24 hours. Drain the heart pieces and reserve both the heart pieces and the marinade.
For the sauce: Remove and discard the seeds and soak the dried peppers in enough hot water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain the peppers and place in an electric blender along with the annatto seeds, oil, and about 3/4 cup (180 ml) of the reserved marinade. Blend until smooth; the sauce should be quite thick.
Thread the heart pieces on skewers and brush with the sauce. Broil over a charcoal fire or under an electric or gas broiler, turning to cook all sides, for about 5 minutes. Serve with additional sauce on the side. Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer.

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This dish may be one of the oldest on earth. The Incas had been eating potatoes for thousands of years before Europeans had their first taste of them, and accounts of potato cookery go back to the very first Spanish conquistadores. Here is our version, modified somewhat for our international audience.

Peruvian Potatoes in Cheese Sauce (Papas a la Huancaina)

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp hot pepper flakes (or to taste)
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, peeled, sliced thin, and separated into rings
8 medium boiling potatoes
1 cup coarsely crumbled queso blanco, or grated fresh mozzarella, or grated Muenster cheese
2/3 cup heavy cream
1 tsp turmeric
2 tsp finely chopped, seeded fresh red or green hot chili (or to taste)
1/3 cup olive oil
4 hard cooked eggs, cut lengthwise into halves
8 black olives
Bibb or Boston lettuce leaves for garnish

In a large mixing bowl combine the lemon juice, dried chili, 1/2 tsp of salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Add the onion rings, tossing to coat them evenly with the mixture. Set aside while the potatoes boil. Boil the potatoes in a large pot of salted water until done, but not falling apart. Meanwhile, combine the cheese, cream, turmeric, chopped fresh chili, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grindings of black pepper in a blender jar. Blend at high speed until thick and creamy. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat. Pour in the sauce, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened. To serve, arrange the potatoes on a heated platter and pour the sauce over them. Drain the onion rings and strew them over the potatoes. Decorate the edge of the platter with the lettuce, eggs, and olives. Serves 8.

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Although this dish is frequently served at the merienda, or afternoon snack, I think it makes a wonderful first course. Traditionally, the shrimps are left with the shells on, but you may prefer to remove them. The achiote seeds are added primarily for the orange color they give to the dish, and may be substituted with a small amount of paprika and turmeric or may be omitted entirely.

Philippine Shrimp and Sweet Potato Fritters (Ukoy)

8-10 medium-sized shrimp in their shells (about 8 oz, 225 g)
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
1 tsp (5 ml) achiote* (annatto) seeds (optional)
OR 1/4 tsp (1 ml) turmeric and 1/4 tsp (1 ml) paprika)
1 cup (250 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and grated
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for frying

For garnish:
Finely chopped scallions (spring onions)
Garlic sauce (see below)

* Available in finer supermarkets and in Asian and Latin American specialty shops.
Combine the shrimp, water, and achiote seeds in a saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Simmer for 3 minutes. Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon and peel and devein if desired. Add enough water to the cooking liquid to make 1 1/4 cups (310 ml). Strain to remove the achiote seeds and set aside. Combine the flour and cornstarch in a mixing bowl and add the shrimp cooking liquid, stirring to form a paste. Add the grated sweet potato, salt, and pepper, stirring to combine. Heat about 1/2 inch (2 cm) of vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Spoon about 1/3 cup (80 ml) of the sweet potato mixture onto a small plate and press one of the cooked shrimp onto the top. Using a spoon, carefully slide the patty into the hot oil. Repeat, cooking no more than 3 or 4 at a time. Fry about 3 minutes, turn carefully, and fry an additional 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining batter and shrimp. Serve shrimp-side up, garnished with chopped scallions and with garlic sauce served on the side. Serves 8 to 10.

Garlic Sauce

1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped garlic
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1/2 cup (125 ml) white vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) water

Mash the garlic and salt together to form a paste. Stir in the vinegar and water. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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It's hard to imagine a Polish meal without pierogi. This version is relatively quick and easy.

Potato Pierogi

For the dough:
2 cups (500 ml) all-purpose flour
1 large egg
2-3 Tbs (30-45 ml) water

For the stuffing:

2 lbs (1 Kg) potatoes, cooked
1/2 onion, chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) cottage or farmer's cheese
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Melted butter for garnish

Mix the ingredients for the dough together, adding just enough water to form a firm dough. Divide in half and roll into thin sheets. Mash the potatoes coarsely. Saute the onion in the butter until golden brown and add to the potatoes, along with the remaining ingredients. Stir to thoroughly combine. Place mounds of the filling 1 to 2 tablespoons (15- 30 ml) in size along one edge of the dough, about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) away from the edge. Fold the dough over the filling and, using a pastry cutter or rim of a glass, cut out semi-circular shapes. Press the edges of the dough together to seal. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, rerolling the leftover pieces of dough as you go along. Drop the pierogi into boiling salted water and boil covered for 2 to 3 minutes, until the pierogi float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Serve immediately with melted butter. Serves 6 to 8.

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This dish made its first appearance in the early '70s, and is still a staple in "fern bars" around the country.

Potato Skins

4 large baking potatoes
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) shredded Cheddar, Monterey Jack, or cheese of your choice
4 slices bacon, fried crisp and crumbled (optional)
Sour cream (optional)
Chopped fresh chives (optional)

Prick the potatoes with a fork and bake in a preheated 425F (220C) oven until done, about 1 hour. Halve lengthwise and scoop out the flesh, leaving shells about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick. Reserve scooped out flesh for another use. Spread the inside of the shells with butter, season with salt and pepper, and cut each shell into 4 to 6 strips. Arrange on a baking sheet and place under a preheated broiler until the cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with optional crumbled bacon and serve with optional sour cream and chopped chives. Serves 4 to 6.

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Back in the old days, meats and seafood were cooked and stored under a layer of fat as a means of preserving them, but nowadays we do it simply because it tastes so good. Use the tiny "salad" shrimp if you can find them, and if not, chopped shrimp of any size can be used for this extravagant spread.

Potted Shrimp

1/2 lb (225 g, 2 stick) butter
1/2 lb (225 g) cooked shrimp, peeled and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A pinch of ground mace
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)
Sprigs of fresh dill for garnish
Thinly sliced bread, toasted if desired, crackers, or melba toast
Lemon wedges for garnish

Heat half the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat, skimming off and discarding the foam as it rises to the top. Add the shrimp, salt, pepper, mace, and optional cayenne and heat without boiling. Spoon the mixture into 4 to 6 ramekins or custard cups. Melt the remaining butter, skimming off and discarding the foam as it rises to the top, and spoon over the shrimp, leaving the sediment behind. Cool until the butter is almost set and place a small sprig of dill on the surface of the butter. Chill in the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Serve with bread or toast points and lemon wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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My research indicates that the original quiche Lorraine probably did not include cheese, but most modern versions include it. Add sauteed onions along with the bacon and you have quiche Alsacienne. This dish may be made in individual pastry shells rather than as a single tart, in which case you will have to adjust the cooking time.

Quiche Lorraine

1 9-inch (22 cm) pastry shell
1/4 lb (124 g) sliced bacon, cut into 1 inch (2 cm) pieces
2 cups (500 ml) cream or milk
3 eggs, well beaten
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
1/2 cup (125 ml) diced or shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese

Prick the bottom of the pie crust thoroughly with a fork to prevent it from bubbling up during cooking. Fry the bacon in a large skillet over high heat until much of the fat is rendered out, but do not fry it until it is crisp. Drain the bacon on paper towels. Combine the cream, eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a bowl and mix well. Place the bacon in the bottom of the pie shell, followed by the cheese. Pour the egg mixture into the shell and bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow to cool and serve lukewarm. Serves 6 to 8.

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Bruschetta (pronounced brew-SKEH-tah) is traditionally grilled over hot coals, but your oven's broiler will do the job. The real secret to this recipe is the bread-use a rustic round loaf with a thick, crunchy crust if possible.

Roasted Garlic Bruschetta

2 heads garlic, roasted and peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 thick slices good quality, crusty bread

Mash the garlic with enough olive oil to make a thick paste and season with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the bread until toasted on both sides. Spread the garlic paste on one side, drizzle with additional olive oil if desired, and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

Quick Roasted Garlic

2 heads garlic
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Break the heads of garlic into individual cloves but do not peel them. Spread them on a baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven for 30 minutes. To peel, squeeze the thicker ends of the cloves to force the soft garlic out of the papery shells.

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According to "The American Century Cookbook", this appetizer was popularized by Vic Bergeron via his famous chain of Trader Vic's restaurants, and gained wide spread popularity in the 1950s. I have had people who swear they hate chicken livers tell me that these are delicious. The original recipe called for deep frying, but this baked version eliminates at least some of the fat.

Rumaki

12 chicken livers
12 to 15 slices of bacon, cut in half crosswise
2 (500 ml) cups soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh ginger (optional)
1 small can (8 oz., 227 g) sliced water chestnuts, drained
About 1/2 cup brown sugar

Combine the chicken livers, the soy sauce, the bacon slices, and the optional ginger in a bowl and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours. Drain off and discard the soy sauce and cut each chicken liver in half (or smaller if needed to make a bite-sized piece). Dip each slice of bacon in the brown sugar, lightly coating both sides. Place the bacon on a flat work surface and place a slice of water chestnut in the center. Place a piece of chicken liver on top of this. Fold both ends of the bacon over the top of the chicken liver and secure all with a toothpick. Bake on a wire rack placed over a shallow baking pan (to catch the drippings) in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until the bacon is crisp. Serve immediately. Makes 24 to 30 appetizers.

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In spite of all the jokes surrounding it, beef tongue is actually a tender, delicious, and inexpensive cut of meat. It may be difficult to find in your area, but any accommodating butcher will be able to order one for you.

Russian Beef Tongue with Horseradish Sauce (Kholodnyi Iazyk s Khrenom)

1 beef tongue (about 3 lbs, 1.4 Kg)
1 medium onion, quartered
3 Tbs (45 ml) salt
12 whole black peppercorns
3 bay (laurel) leaves
Horseradish Sauce (see below)

Wash the tongue under running hot water and trim off the fatty parts from the underside. Place in a large pot with enough water to cover completely and add the onion, salt, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 2 hours. Remove the tongue from the liquid and rinse under cold water. Allow to cool, and remove the skin with a sharp knife. Discard the skin and the cooking liquid. Wrap the tongue in aluminum foil and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours. Cut into thin slices and serve with horseradish sauce. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

Horseradish Sauce

8 oz (245 g) prepared white or red horseradish
2 Tbs (30 ml) sour cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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At one time in our history, no fancy restaurant in the US would dare open it's doors without a shrimp cocktail on the menu. Here is my version.

Shrimp Cocktail

20 to 30 very large shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved
4 cups (1 L) water
2 tsp(10 ml) salt
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
8 whole peppercorns
6 coriander seeds
1 bay (laurel leaf)
6 sprigs fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh tarragon
2 tsp (10 ml) lemon juice

For the cocktail sauce:
1 cup (250 ml) ketchup
1 Tbs (15 ml) prepared horseradish
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
1 tsp (5 ml) mild chili powder
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Combine the reserved shells, water, and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Strain the broth, pressing on the shells to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the shells. Combine the broth and the remaining ingredients except for the shrimp in a saucepan and boil over high heat for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the shrimp. Let stand covered for 10 minutes. Drain the shrimp and plunge into ice water to stop the cooking. Drain the shrimp again and refrigerate until ready to serve. To make the sauce, stir together all the ingredients in a small bowl. Serves 4 to 6.

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This Chinese classic can be found in fine dining rooms in every city in Southeast Asia. I makes a wonderful first course, but also does great duty as an hors d'oeuvre for a cocktail or dinner party.

Shrimp Toast

1/2 lb (225 g) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 egg white
1 Tbs (15 ml) cornstarch
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1/2 tsp (2 ml) granulated sugar
1/4 tsp (1 ml) freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 scallion, both green and white parts, finely chopped
1 narrow loaf French bread (baguette)
1 cup (250 ml) vegetable oil
Small bunch fresh flat leaf parsley

Pulverize the shrimp to a paste with a food processor or blender. Add the egg white, cornstarch, salt, sugar, pepper, garlic, scallions and stir well to combine. Cut the French bread into slices 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. Spread the shrimp paste over one side of each slice. Decorate each slice with a whole parsley "petal", stuck to the shrimp paste. Heat the oil in a frying pan to about 375F (190C). Drop in the bread slices, shrimp side down. Fry until the underside is brown, then turn over and brown the other side. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serves 6 as a first course.

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Tostadas are usually made with the standard 6-inch tortillas, but you can make these into finger food by using the tiny 3-inch tortillas, or by cutting standard tortillas into quarters before frying.

Shrimp Tostadas

Vegetable oil for frying
4-6 corn tortillas
1 lb (450 g) cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined
1-2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced
1 cup (250 ml) fresh, canned, or thawed frozen corn kernels
4 oz (100 g) shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1-2 tomatoes, diced
1/2 red onion, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) lime or lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
Hot sauce to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortillas one at a time until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl and toss gently to combine. Spoon the shrimp mixture over the tortillas and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is another dish typical of the free tapas you might find in a neighborhood bar anywhere in Spain.

Spanish Potatoes in Aioli (Patatas Alioli)

1 lb (450 g) small new potatoes, preferably red-skinned
1/2 cup (125 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2-4 cloves garlic, passed through a garlic press
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, peel if desired, and cut into halves or quarters. Combine the remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Gently fold in the potatoes and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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The travel and food writer has no difficulty in finding appetizers worthy of attention when traveling in Spain. Tapas, little savory bites served in tapa bars and "tascas" (taverns) all over the country, provide an endless supply of regional specialties. This classic tapa can be found throughout the nation, but the best is said to come from the home of sherry wine in southwestern Spain.

Spanish Sausages in Sherry (Salchichas al Jerez)

1 lb (450 g) Spanish chorizo or pork sausage links
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry sherry

Cut the sausages into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat and saute the sausage until lightly browned. Add the sherry and cook uncovered over low heat until the sausage is cooked and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Serve with French bread. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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You'll find these little pies filled with just about everything conceivable throughout Spain, and anything containing scallops immediately falls into my "Favorites" category.

Spanish Scallop Empanadas (Empanadas de Vieiras)

4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper (capsicum), cored, seeded,
and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper (capsicum), cored, seeded,
and finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) whole bay scallops or coarsely chopped
sea scallops
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cooked ham
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Pastry dough for 2 10-inch (25 cm) pies
1 egg beaten with
1 tsp (5 ml) water

Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onions and bell peppers until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the scallops, ham, parsley, salt, and pepper and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside. Cut the pastry into rounds of 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) and divide the scallop mixture between them. Fold the dough over the filling to form semi-circles and crimp the edges of the pastry with the tines of a fork. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet, brush with the egg mixture, and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

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When my brother and I were both in college I visited him in Paris, where he treated me to a dinner in one of the finer bistros in his neighborhood. He must have had access to one of our parents' credit cards, because he ordered this dish for us as an appetizer.

Steak Tartare

[Note: This recipe calls for a raw egg yolk. If salmonella contamination is a concern in your area, please omit it.]

1 lb (450 g) lean beef sirloin, finely ground
1 egg yolk
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers, rinsed and drained
1 Tbs (15 ml) ketchup
1 Tbs (15 ml) cognac (optional)
2 tsp (10 ml) Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lettuce leaves or other green for garnish
Toast points

Combine the beef, egg yolk, onion, capers, ketchup, optional cognac, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, salt, and pepper in a bowl and mix thoroughly with your hands or a fork. Form into individual patties and place on individual serving plates garnished with lettuce leaves. Serve with toast points. Serves 6 to 8.

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How can you have a dinner in New England without clams in some form or another? I wouldn't dream of it.

Steamed Clams

8 dozen steamers or small clams
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 Tbs (60 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley
3 cups (750 ml) water
Melted butter for dipping

Rinse the clams thoroughly under cold running water, discarding any with broken shells. Heat the butter in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the onion, stirring frequently, until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and water and bring to a boil. Add the clams and cook covered for 5 to 8 minutes, until the shells open. Discard any clams that didn't open. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a large heated serving bowl. Strain the broth through a double layer of cheesecloth and divide between 4 to 6 small serving bowls. Serve melted butter in small bowls. To eat, remove clams from their shells using a small fork or fingers, dip into the broth and then into melted butter. Serves 4 to 6.

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These hot little morsels are the perfect start to a holiday party.

Swedish Crab Canapés (Krabbsmorgas)

1 Tbs (15 ml) butter
1 Tbs (15 ml) all-purpose flour
1 egg yolk
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream, half-and-half, or milk
1/2 lb (225 g) fresh, canned, or frozen crab meat,
drained and picked over
1 Tbs (15 ml) dry sherry
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 slices white bread, crust removed

Heat the butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Whisk together the egg yolk and the cream. Remove the butter mixture from the heat and stir in the cream mixture. Whisk over low heat until thickened-do not boil. Combine the crab meat, sherry, dill, salt, pepper, and the cream sauce in a bowl and stir to combine. Toast the bread on one side under a hot broiler and cut each slice into quarters. Mound the crab mixture on the untoasted side of the pieces of bread. These may be prepared in advance to this point and refrigerated. Immediately before serving, heat under a preheated broiler until hot and lightly browned, about 1 minute. Serves 4 to 6.

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These little grilled sandwiches are great as an first course or cut into quarters as a cocktail hors d'oeuvre, and are also frequently served as a luncheon dish and as a snack.

Swedish Spring Sandwiches (Varsm Rgasar)

1/2 loaf day-old homemade-type white bread, unsliced
12 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
2 Tbs Dijon style mustard
4 hard cooked eggs, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 (60 ml) cup finely chopped fresh dill,
or combination of dill, parsley, and chives
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil

Trim the crust off the bread and cut into thin (1/8 inch, 0.5 mm) slices. You will need 12 slices. Mash together the anchovies, butter, mustard, eggs, herbs, and pepper in a small bowl. Spread this mixture evenly over 6 of the slices of bread, and top with the remaining 6 slices, pressing together lightly. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, until the filling is firm. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy skillet until the foam subsides. Add the sandwiches 2 or 3 at a time and fry for 2 or 3 minutes on each side until they are golden brown. Place on paper towels to drain. To serve as cocktail snacks, cut into quarters. Makes 6 sandwiches or 24 hors d'oeuvre.

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This Middle Eastern classic is usually served as a side dish, but it makes an excellent and healthy "dip" if served with pita bread. I have added some dried fruits and nuts to the basic recipe to add a little more fiber to the fiber provided by a bulgur, a whole-grain product, but you can easily eliminate one or more ingredients and still have a great dish.

Tabbouleh

1/2 cup (125 ml) fine bulgur (bulghur wheat, burghul, cracked wheat)
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped tomatoes
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped fresh Italian (flat leaf) parsley
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped scallion (spring onion), white and green parts
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped dried apricots
1/4 cup (60 ml) raisins
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped dates
1/4 cup (60 ml) slivered almonds
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped fresh mint leaves

Soak the bulgur in enough cold water to cover for 15 minutes. Drain and wrap in cheesecloth or a clean dish towel and squeeze to remove as much water as possible. Combine with the remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl and toss with a fork to combine. Refrigerate until ready to eat. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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Although its origins are unclear, this dip has been popular in Texas for more than half a century.

Texas Caviar

3 15-oz cans (425 g each) black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained
About 1/2 cup (125 ml) bottled Italian salad dressing
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped onion
1-3 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and refrigerate covered for at least 2 hours, or for up to 2 days. Serve at room temperature with tortilla chips for dipping. Makes about 5 cups (1.25 L).

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My mother began serving this dip at parties and family gatherings over 30 years ago, and it has become a family favorite to three generations.

The Chef's Favorite Clam Dip

1 large, round loaf of crusty bread, unsliced (about 24 oz, 700 g)
2 packages (8 oz, 225 g each) cream cheese at room temperature
3 small cans (7 oz, 200 g each) clams, drained, juice reserved
2 Tbs (30 ml) onion, grated or finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) fresh lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) hot sauce, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

With a sharp knife remove a slice from the top of the loaf of bread and set aside. Hollow out the loaf, leaving a shell 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2 to 3 cm) thick. Cut or tear the removed bread into 1-inch (2 cm) cubes or chunks. In a large bowl beat the cream cheese until smooth. Stir in the clams, 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the reserved liquid, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, onion, hot pepper sauce, salt, and pepper. Center the hollowed out loaf on a piece of aluminum foil large enough to wrap it with and pour the clam mixture into the loaf. Cover with the reserved slice of bread and wrap in the aluminum foil. Bake in a 250F (120C) oven for 3 hours. Serve on a large serving platter surrounded by the bread you removed from the inside of the loaf, along with raw vegetables. When empty the bread shell can be cut or torn apart and eaten. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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This is an elegant little appetizer that is right at home any time finger-food is called for.

Tomato and Basil Crostini

4 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
12 to 16 slices French bread (baguette type)
1 large clove of garlic, peeled
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh basil
Zest of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Allow the tomatoes to drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Toast the slices of bread and rub each with garlic. Combine the tomatoes with the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and divide between the slices of toast. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Food snobs might turn up their noses at this recipe, considering it a relic from a bygone age, but a good tomato aspic is still an unusual, tasty, healthy, and refreshing dish. Maybe it's time for a comeback.

Tomato Aspic

4 cups (1 L) cored and quartered fresh tomatoes
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 ribs celery with leaves, chopped
1 bay (laurel) leaf
10 whole black peppercorns
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) salt
2 Tbs (30 ml) unflavored gelatin dissolved in
1/2 cup (125 ml) cold water
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry sherry or Marsala wine (optional)
Optional ingredients:
Crumbled blue or feta cheese
Small cooked shrimp
Sliced avocado
Sliced olives
Chopped celery
Sliced hard-cooked eggs
Chopped dill pickles

Combine the tomatoes, water, celery, bay leaf, peppercorns, onion, lemon juice, sugar, and salt in a pot and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve (or several layers of cheesecloth for a clearer aspic) and discard the solids, reserving the liquid. Stir the gelatin mixture and the optional sherry into the liquid while still hot and add enough water to make 4 cups (1 L). Ladle into a decorative mold or individual custard cups or ramekins. Chill until set, about 2 hours. If desired, you may add optional ingredients by filling the mold or cups about 1/3 full. Chill until firm and add the optional ingredients of your choice, followed by the remaining liquid and a second chilling. Unmold by dipping the mold into warm water before inverting on a serving plate. Serves 6 to 8.

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It is the tradition in my family that a person gets to choose the menu for their birthday dinner. Naturally, that meant that my mother prepared whatever we wanted for all those years, and being the only cook in the house was treated to dinner in a fine restaurant on her own birthday. When I finally became able enough in the kitchen to put together a meal worthy of an occasion such as her birthday, this was the first course that I served.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna

6 ripe tomatoes
Salt
2-7 oz (195 g) cans tuna packed in olive oil, drained
1/2 cup (125 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Parsley leaves for garnish

Slice the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out the seeds and most of the dividing walls inside. Sprinkle the insides of the tomatoes lightly with salt and invert on paper towels for 1/2 hour to drain the excess moisture. Mix together the tuna, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the mayonnaise, capers, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper, and fill the tomatoes with the tuna mixture. Spread the remaining mayonnaise on top, and garnish with parsley leaves. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 6.

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This versatile dish can be served as a salad or side dish, or as a first course like they do in Tuscany.

Tuscan Bean and Tuna Antipasto (Fagioli Toscanelli)

1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice or white wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) cannellini or other
white beans, rinsed and thoroughly drained
2 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, thinly sliced
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 can (7 oz, 200 g) tuna (preferably packed in olive oil), drained

Whisk together the oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Combine with the beans, scallions, and parsley, tossing to combine well. Break the tuna into chunks and arrange on top of the beans. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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Although this dish isn't an integral part of the classic Uruguayan parrillada, you'll find it on virtually every menu in Uruguay and Argentina. Many restaurants pride themselves on the number of tongue dishes on the buffet, and it isn't uncommon to see it prepared five or six different ways. Here is one of my family's favorites:

Uruguayan Beef Tongue Vinaigrette (Lengua a la Vinagreta)

1 beef tongue
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 medium onion, quartered
2 bay (laurel) leaves
10 whole black peppercorns
3/4 cup (180 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar
1 Tbs (15 ml) Dijon-style mustard
1 hard-cooked egg, finely chopped or pressed
through a coarse sieve
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine the tongue, carrots, celery, onion, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a large pot and add enough water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Remove the tongue and discard the liquid and vegetables. Peel off and discard the skin. Slice the tongue into thin slices and arrange on a serving platter. Whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, and mustard. Stir in the chopped egg, salt, and pepper and spoon the sauce over the tongue. Let the tongue marinate covered in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight. Serve cold or at room temperature. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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This dish originally went by the name of Welsh Rabbit, possibly because cheese was often available when rabbits were not. It came to be called Welsh Rarebit in the late 18th century, as it frequently still is, but the correct designation is rabbit.

Welsh Rabbit

4 slices homemade-type white bread, trimmed of crusts and toasted
2 cups (500 ml) freshly grated sharp Cheddar cheese (approx. 1/2 lb, 225 g) combined with
1 Tbs (15 ml) flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) beer
1 Tbs (15 ml) butter
1 tsp (5 ml) Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dry English mustard
A pinch of cayenne pepper

Combine in a heavy 2 to 3 qt (2 to 3 L) saucepan the cheese and flour mixture, beer, butter, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and cayenne pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly and not allowing the mixture to boil, until it is smooth. Place the slices of toast in a shallow ovenproof dish just large enough to hold them (you may use more than one dish if you do not have one the right size to fit all four pieces snugly) and pour the rabbit evenly over them. Place the dish under the broiler for one or two minutes to brown the cheese lightly and serve immediately. Serves 2 to 4.

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Here is another example of early trans-Atlantic commerce. The avocado is native to Central America, but was introduced into North America from Africa, where it was then and still is a popular food crop.

West African Avocado Stuffed with Smoked Fish

4 hard boiled eggs, peeled
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
1/2 lb (250 g) smoked whitefish
2 large ripe avocados
Chopped parsley or cilantro for garnish

Rub the yolks of the eggs through a fine strainer and finely chop the egg whites. Mash the egg yolks and the milk together in a deep bowl. Add the lime juice, salt, and pepper. Beat in the olive oil, a little at a time, to form an emulsion. Remove the skin and small bones from the fish and mix it into the sauce, flaking it with a fork. Add the chopped egg whites and toss gently to combine thoroughly. Just before serving, slice the avocados in half and remove the seeds, along with any discolored parts of the flesh. Divide the fish mixture among the avocado halves, mounding it slightly. Sprinkle with a little chopped parsley or cilantro and serve at once. Serves 4.

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I haven't given quantities in this recipe because that will depend on the size of the zucchini as well as your preferences with regard to the toppings, so here is the simple procedure instead.

Zucchini Mini-Pizzas

Large zucchini (courgettes), cut diagonally into 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices
Prepared pizza sauce or tomato sauce
Sliced or chopped black or green olives
Finely chopped scallion (spring onion)
Chopped bell pepper
Mozzarella or other white cheese

Place the zucchini slices on a greased baking sheet and top first with the sauce, then the olives, scallion, and pepper, and finally with the cheese. Cook under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly. Serve hot.

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