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The
Cooking of Italy
Index of Recipes
Starters (Antipasti)
Bagna Cauda
Goat Cheese
and Garlic Spread (Crema Formaggio all'Olio)
Grilled Mozzarella Sandwiches (Mozzarella in
Carrozza)
Leek
Frittata (Frittata ai Porri)
Marinated
Beef (Carne Cruda)
Potato and Pancetta Frittata (Frittata con le Patate
e Pancetta)
Seafood
Salad (Insalata di Mare)
Shrimp with Beans (Gamberi e Fagioli)
Shrimp with Oil and Lemon (Gamberi all'Olio e
Limone)
Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)
Soups (Zuppe)
Bean Soup (Zuppa di Cannellini)
Cold Tomato Soup (Zuppa di Pomodoro Fredda)
Egg-Drop and Zucchini Soup (Stracciatella alle
Zucchine)
Italian Wedding Soup (Polpettine in Brodo)
Lentil Soup (Zuppa di Lenticchie)
Onion Soup (Zuppa di Cipolle)
Tomato Bread Soup (Pappa al Pomodoro)
Zuppa alla Pavese
Salads (Insalate)
Arugula and Fennel Salad (Insalata di Rucola e
Finocchio)
Asparagus Salad (Asparagi in Insalata)
Celery Salad with Anchovy Dressing (Insalata di
Sedano)
Olive Salad (Insalata di Olive)
Tomato and Mozzarella Salad (Insalata Caprese)
First Courses (Primi Piati)
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese)
Butter and Tomato Sauce (Sugo al Burro e Pomodoro)
Lemon Risotto (Risotto al Limone)
Linguine with Pesto and Tomatoes (Linguine al Pesto
e Pomodori)
Milanese Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)
Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Funghi)
Pasta with Butter and Cheese (Pasta al Burro e
Formaggio)
Pasta with Peppers (Pasta Peperonata)
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Spaghetti with Olives and Capers (Spaghetti alla
Vesuviana)
Side Dishes (Contorni)
Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane)
Fried Artichoke Hearts (Carciofi Friti)
Mashed Potatoes with Parmesan Cheese (Puré di Patate
al Parmigiano)
Peppers in Vinegar (Peperoni in Aceto)
Sauteed Broccoli (Broccoli Saltati)
Stuffed Onions (Cipolle Ripiene)
Main Dishes (Secondi Piati)
Braised Lamb Shanks (Stinchi di Agnello)
Calf's Liver Venetian Style (Fegato alla Veneziana)
Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto and Cheese (Petti di
Pollo alla Bolognese)
Chicken Breasts with Sage (Petti di Pollo alla
Salvia)
Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al
Salmoriglio)
Lamb Stew with Olives (Spezzatino di Agnello alle
Olive)
Mixed Boiled Meats (Bollito Misto)
Neapolitan Beef Rolls (Braciole Napolitane)
Shrimp Venetian-Style (Scampi alla Veneziana)
Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro
e Alloro)
Desserts (Dolci)
Almond Cake (Torta di Mandorle)
Cassata
Chimney Sweep Ice Cream (Gelato Spazzacamino)
Chocolate Cake (Torta di Cioccolato)
Chocolate Flan (Budini di Cioccolato)
Diplomat Cake (Il Diplomatico)
Italian Ices (Granite)
Rice Cake (Torta di Riso)
Ricotta Ice Cream (Gelato di Ricotta)
Tiramisu
Zuppa Inglese
Starters (Antipasti)
The bagna cauda (hot bath, or sauce) can be found in
all parts of Italy, and are usually based on a hot
sauce made of olive oil, garlic, and anchovies. This
version from Italy's northernmost and westernmost
region of Piedmont uses cream instead of olive oil.
It is usually served as an appetizer in restaurants,
although it does duty as a main course in many
Italian homes.
Bagna
Cauda
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
8 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
Fresh vegetables of your choice, such as cucumbers,
carrots, fennel, sweet bell peppers, celery,
scallions, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, and mushrooms,
cut into a size and shape suitable for dipping
Italian bread sticks or Italian
bread
Simmer the cream over a low flame, uncovered, in a
small saucepan for about 20 minutes, or until
reduced to about half its original volume. In a
fondue pot or other flame-proof enameled or
earthenware casserole that fits over a candle warmer
or electric hot tray, melt the butter over low heat.
Add the anchovies and the garlic and stir for about
1 minute. Add the reduced cream and bring the sauce
to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Do not let the
sauce boil. Serve immediately with the cold raw
vegetables and the bread sticks or Italian bread for
dipping. If the butter and the cream separate at the
table, recombine them using a wire whisk. Serves 6
to 8 as an appetizer, 3 to 4 as a main dish.
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This simple dish can be spread on toasted bread, or
used as a dip with breadsticks or raw vegetables.
Goat Cheese
and Garlic Spread (Crema Formaggio all'Olio)
8 oz (225 g) mild goat cheese
1 Tbs (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and
blend until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and
serve immediately, or refrigerate covered for up to
3 days. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).
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These little sandwiches, called "mozzarella in a
carriage" because they resemble little cartwheels,
are an elegant variation on the grilled cheese
sandwich.
Grilled Mozzarella Sandwiches (Mozzarella in
Carrozza)
1 loaf French or Italian bread, cut into 1/4 inch (5
mm) thick slices
1 lb (450 g) fresh mozzarella cheese
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) dry bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 eggs, lightly beaten with 2 Tbs (30 ml) milk
Vegetable oil for frying
Cut the bread into 3-inch (8 cm) rounds using a
cookie cutter or the rim of a small glass. Cut the
mozzarella into slices 1/4-inch (5 mm) thick and
slightly smaller in diameter than the bread slices.
Make sandwiches of the bread and cheese and briefly
dip each into the milk. Season the bread crumbs with
salt and pepper. Seal the edges of the sandwiches by
pressing them gently, and coat thoroughly with the
bread crumbs, rolling the sandwiches in the bread
crumbs like a cartwheel to coat the edges. Heat the
oil to 375F (190C) in a deep fryer or large skillet.
Dip the sandwiches in the egg mixture and fry in the
hot oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on
paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8 as
an appetizer.
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These open-faced omelets are popular all over Italy
where they may be served as an antipasto or as the
main course of a light meal. They also appear as
snacks at any time of day or night, and are
frequently used as a sandwich filling.
Leek
Frittata (Frittata ai Porri)
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter or olive oil
2-3 medium leeks, white and tender green parts, cut
into 1/2-inch (2 cm) slices and thoroughly rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Heat the butter in a large skillet, preferably
non-stick, over moderate heat and saute the leeks
for about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and
cook covered for 15 minutes. Combine the eggs and
cheese in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the egg
mixture to the skillet and stir to combine. Cook
until the bottom is browned and the top is still
runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Place under a preheated
broiler until the top id lightly browned, 2 to 4
minutes. Slide the frittata onto a serving platter
and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 to
6.
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Recipes
An upscale version of this traditional dish was
invented at Harry's Bar in Venice in 1961 and was
dubbed Carpaccio after the Italian painter known for
using red in his paintings. Think of this as the
Northern Italian version of steak tartare and enjoy.
Marinated
Beef (Carne Cruda)
1-1/2 lbs (450-675 g) beef tenderloin (filet
mignon), firmed in the freezer for 30 minutes and
cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) cubes
1 cup (250 ml) chopped arugula (rocket)
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped parsley leaves
1/3 cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and toss to
combine. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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Frittatas, the Italian version of an open-faced
omelet, are as versatile as they are easy to cook.
They can be served warm, chilled, or at room
temperature, and they are often served on bread,
sandwich style. Use a non-stick skillet for best
results, but be sure that the handle is oven-proof.
Potato and Pancetta Frittata (Frittata con le Patate
e Pancetta)
3/4 lb (340 g) boiling potatoes, peeled and diced
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil or butter
2 onions, thinly sliced
6 oz (170 g) pancetta, thinly sliced and cut into
1-inch (2 cm) strips
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
5-6 eggs, beaten
Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until
tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a skillet over
moderate heat and saute the onions until lightly
browned, about 10 minutes. Add the pancetta and
continue cooking until lightly browned, about 5
minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and red pepper
flakes. Add the eggs and potatoes and continue
cooking over moderate heat until the eggs have set
on the bottom and only the top is runny. Place under
a preheated broiler and cook until the top is set
and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve warm,
chilled, or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
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This dish, or ones very similar to it, is found in
nearly every eating establishment in Italy. The
secret to tender, flavorful seafood is to avoid
overcooking it, and this method guarantees excellent
results. Fortunately, frozen squid that has already
been cleaned is available almost everywhere so you
don't have to do this rather unpleasant kitchen
chore yourself.
Seafood
Salad (Insalata di Mare)
4 cups (1 L) water
1 Tbs (15 ml) salt
3 Tbs (45 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 lb (225 g) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved
lengthwise
1/2 lb (225 g) squid, cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch
(2 cm) pieces
1/2 lb (225 g) sea scallops, halved horizontally
1 tomato, cut into thin wedges
1 15-oz (425 g) can cannellini beans, drained
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh herb such as parsley,
marjoram, or basil
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Place the water, salt, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of
the vinegar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil
over high heat. Add the shrimp and remove 1 minute
after the water has returned to a boil. Remove the
shrimp with a slotted spoon and rinse under cold
water to stop the cooking. Repeat this process using
the same water with the squid and scallops. Combine
the cooked seafood with the remaining vinegar,
tomato, cannellini, fresh herbs, olive oil, and salt
to taste in a mixing bowl and toss gently to
combine. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
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The vinegar in the water used to boil the shrimp
gives them a subtle but distinct aroma of freshness.
Use frozen shrimp unless you happen to know a shrimp
fisherman who sells them on the dock.
Shrimp with Beans (Gamberi e Fagioli)
1 lb (450 g) thawed frozen shrimp, peeled and
deveined
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) cannellini or Great Northern
beans, rinsed and drained
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cook the shrimp in 4 quarts (4 L) of boiling salted
water to which the vinegar has been added. Cook just
until the shrimp are cooked through, about 1 minutes
after the water has returned to the boil. Drain and
combine with the remaining ingredients in a bowl,
tossing to combine. Serve war, chilled, or at room
temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
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Fresh seafood is so abundant in Italy that the
Italians often serve it as an antipasto and then
again for the main dish. This dish is about as
simple as they come.
Shrimp with Oil and Lemon (Gamberi all'Olio e
Limone)
2 lbs (900 g) large shrimp
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
Bring about 1 gallon (4 L) salted water to a boil in
a large pot over high heat. Add the shrimp and
vinegar and return to the boil. Cook for 1 minute
after the water returns to the bowl and drain. Cool
enough to handle the shrimp and peel and devein
them. Toss with the olive oil and lemon juice and
serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
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It is the tradition in my family that a person gets
to choose the menu for their birthday dinner.
Naturally, that meant that my mother prepared
whatever we wanted for all those years, and being
the only cook in the house was treated to dinner in
a fine restaurant on her own birthday. When I
finally became able enough in the kitchen to put
together a meal worthy of an occasion such as her
birthday, this was the first course that I served.
Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)
6 ripe tomatoes
Salt
2-7 oz (195 g) cans tuna packed in olive oil,
drained
1/2 cup (125 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Parsley leaves for garnish
Slice the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out the
seeds and most of the dividing walls inside.
Sprinkle the insides of the tomatoes lightly with
salt and invert on paper towels for 1/2 hour to
drain the excess moisture. Mix together the tuna,
1/2 cup (125 ml) of the mayonnaise, capers, lemon
juice, mustard, salt, and pepper, and fill the
tomatoes with the tuna mixture. Spread the remaining
mayonnaise on top, and garnish with parsley leaves.
Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 6.
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Soups (Zuppe)
This classic Italian dish is virtually all beans
with very little broth, and is frequently served as
a side dish. If you would like yours more on the
soupy side, simply add more stock.
Bean Soup (Zuppa di Cannellini)
1/2 cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) cannellini, white kidney,
or other white beans, drained
1 cup (250 ml) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Toasted slices of Italian bread
Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and
saute the garlic until light golden brown. Add the
parsley and stir. Add the beans, stock, salt, and
pepper and bring to a simmer. Puree about 1/2 cup
(125 ml) of the beans in a food processor or by
pressing them through a fine sieve and stir into the
soup. Serve over toasted bread. Serves 4 to 6.
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I have published dozens of tomato soup recipes over
the years, both hot and cold, but I have never
published a cold tomato soup recipe from Italy.
Until now.
Cold Tomato Soup (Zuppa di Pomodoro Fredda)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
additional for garnish
1/2 onion, chopped
2 lbs (900 g) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and
coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-2 cups (250-500 ml) chicken stock, vegetable
stock, or water
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
About 4 oz (110 g) goat cheese
Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and saute
the onion until tender but not brown, about 5
minutes. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and
pepper. Saute for 5 minutes, then lower the heat,
add the stock, and simmer covered for 30 minutes.
Puree the soup in an electric blender or food
processor and set aside to cool. Refrigerate until
ready to serve. Garnish with the cucumber, a dollop
of goat cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil
immediately before serving. Serves 4 to 6.
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This classic Italian soup translates as "little
rags" thanks to the tiny pieces of cooked egg
floating in the broth. It is often made without
vegetables, but versions including various leafy
greens and other vegetables are common.
Egg-Drop and Zucchini Soup (Stracciatella alle
Zucchine)
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 lbs (375 ml) zucchini (courgettes), diced
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) canned beef stock
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) canned chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped parsley
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a large heavy soup pot over moderate
heat. Saute the onion and zucchini until lightly
browned, about 15 minutes. Add the stocks and water
and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
covered for 20 minutes. Stir the remaining
ingredients together in a small bowl. Immediately
before serving, slowly pour the egg mixture into the
simmering broth while stirring. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6.
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This soup is simply called "meatballs in broth" in
Italy, but somehow it came to be associated with
weddings in the United States.
Italian Wedding Soup (Polpettine in Brodo)
2 cups (500 ml) canned beef stock
2 cups (500 ml) canned chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 slice white bread, crust removed
1 Tbs (15 ml) milk
1/2 lb (225 g) ground veal, pork, or beef
1 egg
2 Tbs (30 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus
additional for garnish
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine the beef and chicken stocks and water in a
pot and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Place
the bread and milk in a mixing bowl and mash with a
fork to make a smooth paste. Add the remaining
ingredients and mix thoroughly. Form into small
meatballs about 1/2 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Place
in the simmering stock and cook for 10 minutes.
Serve garnished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Serves 4 to 6.
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Lentil soup is one of my favorites, and there is a
quite acceptable canned variety sold in US
supermarkets under an Italian brand name. This
recipe, however, puts that one to shame. Try it and
I'm sure you'll agree.
Lentil Soup (Zuppa di Lenticchie)
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped pancetta or unsmoked
bacon or unsmoked ham
1 15-oz (425 g) can of Italian tomatoes, chopped,
with their liquid
1 lb (450 g) dried lentils
4 cups (1 L) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
3 cups (750 ml) water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Heat the olive oil in a large pot over moderate heat
and saute the onion, celery, and carrots until
tender and lightly browned. Add the pancetta, bacon,
or ham, and the tomatoes with their liquid and
simmer uncovered over low heat for 20 minutes. Add
the lentils, stock, and water. Simmer covered,
stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until the
lentils are tender. Some lentils absorb more liquid
than others, so adjust the amount of liquid if
necessary by adding more stock or water. Season with
salt and pepper. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan
cheese. Serves 6 to 8.
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Similar to the famous French onion soup, the Italian
version uses olive oil instead of butter, a light
meat stock rather than the classic French beef
stock, and pecorino cheese instead of gruyere. Other
than those things, they're almost identical.
Onion Soup (Zuppa di Cipolle)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 lbs (900 g) onions, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
2 cups (500 ml) beef or chicken stock, or mixture of
the two
2 cups (500 ml) water
4-6 thick slices crusty Italian-style bread, toasted
Pecorino cheese for garnish
Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and add the
onions, salt, and pepper. Saute until the onions
begin to brown, about 10 minutes, then lower the
heat and continue cooking until the onions are
lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Add the wine and
cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
Increase the heat to high, add the stock and water,
and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
covered for 30 minutes. To serve, place a slice of
toasted bread in each bowl, ladle the soup over the
bread, and use a vegetable peeler to garnish with
shavings of the pecorino cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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"Pappa" is a word that describes bread cooked in
broth, and the word is also used to describe baby
food. This dish is considered so healthy and
nutritious that it is often served to infants. If
you don't have any stale bread you can just dry some
in a warm oven for a few minutes.
Tomato Bread Soup (Pappa al Pomodoro)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken or beef stock, or equal
parts of both
1-1/2 lbs (450-675 g) tomatoes, coarsely chopped
15-20 leaves fresh basil, shredded
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 cups (500-750 ml) 3/4-inch (2 cm) cubes of
day-old bread
Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and
saute the garlic until it is lightly browned. Remove
and discard the garlic. Add the stock, tomatoes,
basil, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the
bread, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove from the heat and let sit for 20 minutes
before serving. Serves 4 to 6.
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Although this soup is well know throughout Italy, it
originated in the northern region of Lombardy and is
peasant cooking at its best-simple and delicious.
Zuppa alla Pavese
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
4 slices Italian bread, about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm)
thick
4 cups (1 L) chicken stock
4 eggs (as fresh as possible)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Heat the butter in a large skillet over moderate
heat and fry the bread, turning it, until it is
golden brown on both sides. Place a slice of bread
in each of four soup bowls. Bring the chicken stock
to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring 2
inches (5 cm) of water to a simmer in a large
skillet, and gently put the eggs into the water by
first breaking the eggs, one at a time, into a cup
or saucer, and then letting them slide into the
water, disturbing the water as little as possible.
Do not let the water boil. Poach the eggs for 3 to 5
minutes, depending on the firmness you prefer, and
then remove them from the water with a slotted
spoon, allowing them to drain on a paper towel for a
few seconds before placing them on the slices of
bread. Sprinkle the eggs and bread with Parmesan
cheese and ladle the stock around the bread. Serve
immediately. Serves 4.
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Salads (Insalate)
This simple salad using traditional Italian
ingredients benefits from the peppery spiciness of
the arugula and the crisp refreshing flavor of the
fennel. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the Parmesan
for the garnish just like they do in the finest
restaurants.
Arugula and Fennel Salad (Insalata di Rucola e
Finocchio)
1-2 bunches arugula (depending on size), thick stems
removed
1-2 fennel bulbs (depending on size), very thinly
sliced
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Shavings of Parmesan cheese for garnish
Combine the arugula and fennel in a salad bowl.
Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and
pepper and toss with the greens. Garnish with
shavings of Parmesan. Serves 4 to 6.
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The term "in insalata" indicates that a vegetable is
dressed with oil and vinegar like a salad, and these
dishes are almost always served at room temperature.
They can be served as salads or as "contorni" (side
dishes) with the main dish.
Asparagus Salad (Asparagi in Insalata)
1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) asparagus, trimmed
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish (optional)
Boil or steam the asparagus just until they are
tender. Transfer to a platter and allow to cool to
room temperature. Drain off any water in the
platter, drizzle with oil and vinegar, and season
with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with chopped
parsley if desired. May be made several hours ahead,
but do not refrigerate. Serves 4 to 6.
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This salad is best eaten immediately after adding
the dressing in order to prevent the celery from
becoming limp and soggy.
Celery Salad with Anchovy Dressing (Insalata di
Sedano)
1 head of celery, about 1 1/2 lbs (675 g)
6 Tbs (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cans (2 oz, 56 g each) anchovy fillets in olive
oil (use the oil as well as the anchovies)
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Separate the head of celery into individual ribs and
cut into 3-inch (8 cm) lengths. Make "flowers" by
making several cuts about 1/3 the length of the
pieces of celery and placing in a bowl of ice water
in the refrigerator until they fan out into the
shape of flowers. This works best if the celery is
soaked in the ice water for at least 2 hours.
Combine the remaining ingredients in an electric
blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
Drain the celery and pat dry with a towel. Toss with
the dressing and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.
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This quick and easy dish requires no cooking, and
can be served as part of an antipasto platter or as
a side dish.
Olive Salad (Insalata di Olive)
1 cup (250 ml) drained pimiento-stuffed green
olives, coarsely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 tsp (2 ml) grated lemon zest
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried oregano
1/4 tsp (1 ml) hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss to
combine. Refrigerate covered for at least 2 hours,
and up to 2 days before serving at room temperature.
Serves 4 to 6.
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You can get away with the mealy, flavorless tomatoes
that are available year round for many dishes, but
this classic salad from the Isle of Capri requires
only the best tomatoes picked red and ripe from the
vine. Naturally, a dish a simple as this also
demands the best quality mozzarella, basil, and
olive oil, so be sure to avoid the pre-sliced
cheese, limp basil, and everyday olive oil.
Tomato and Mozzarella Salad (Insalata Caprese)
4 large ripe tomatoes, sliced
12 oz (340 g) fresh mozzarella, sliced
1-1 1/2 cups (250-375 ml) fresh basil leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Salt to taste
Arrange the tomatoes and mozzarella in alternating
slices on a serving platter. Sprinkle with the basil
leaves. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and season
with salt immediately before serving. Do not
refrigerate prior to serving and serve at room
temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
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First Courses (Primi Piati)
"Ragu" is a generic term used to describe meat
sauces, and every home and restaurant in Italy has
its own variation on the theme. Most include
tomatoes, as does this classic version from Bologna
in northern Italy. Serve it over the pasta of your
choice for an authentic taste of Italy.
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese)
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
12 oz (340 g) ground beef
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 cup (250 ml) milk
A grating of fresh nutmeg
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) whole peeled tomatoes, chopped,
with their liquid
1 lb (450 g) pasta of your choice, cooked according
to package directions
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
Heat the butter and olive oil in a pot over moderate
heat and saute the onion, carrot, and celery until
lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the beef,
season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the beef has lost its pink
color. Add the wine and cook until it is mostly
evaporated. Add the milk and cook until it is mostly
evaporated. Add the nutmeg and tomatoes and bring to
a boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting so the
pot is barely simmering and cook uncovered until all
the liquid has evaporated, about 3 hours. Ladle the
sauce over the cooked pasta and serve with grated
Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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Rather than providing a recipes for an actual dish
today, I offer up a classic Italian sauce to be used
on the pasta of your choice. This sauce would also
be a fitting finish for just about any seafood or
chicken.
Butter and Tomato Sauce (Sugo al Burro e Pomodoro)
2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) whole peeled tomatoes,
chopped, with their liquid
6 Tbs (90 ml) butter
1 onion, halved
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) pasta of your choice, cooked according
to package directions
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
Combine all the ingredients in a pot and bring to a
boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer
uncovered until all the liquid has evaporated, 30 to
45 minutes. Discard the onion before serving. Ladle
the sauce over the cooked pasta and serve with
grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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This fragrant rice dish goes great with just about
everything, but I think it is particularly well
suited to a meal of fish or seafood.
Lemon Risotto (Risotto al Limone)
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or beef stock
3 cups (750 ml) water
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 3/4 cups (430 ml) Arborio rice
Salt to taste
The grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Combine the stock and water in a pot and bring to a
simmer over moderate heat. Heat half the butter in a
large skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion
until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the
rice and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2
minutes. Add about 1 cup (250 ml) of the broth
mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until almost
all the liquid has been absorbed before adding more.
Continue cooking and adding liquid, stirring
frequently, for 15 minutes. Add half the grated
lemon zest and all of the lemon juice. Continue
cooking and adding more liquid as needed until the
rice is tender but still firm-"al dente"-about 5
to 10 minutes more. Immediately before serving stir
in the remaining butter and grated Parmesan, and
garnish with the remaining lemon zest. Serves 4 to
6.
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Prepared basil pesto is widely available these days
from a number of manufacturers, but none of them can
hold a candle to the homemade version. Use the
store-bought kind if you're in a hurry, but I've
included the recipe below for those who want to go
the extra mile.
Linguine with Pesto and Tomatoes (Linguine al Pesto
e Pomodori)
1/2 cup (125 ml) pesto Genovese (recipe below)
2-3 tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) linguine or other pasta shape, cooked
according to the package directions and drained
Combine the pesto, tomatoes, and 2 to 3 tablespoons
(30-45 ml) of the boiling pasta water in a large
bowl. Add the cooked pasta and toss to combine.
Serves 4 to 6.
Pesto Genovese
2 cups (500 ml) fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup (125 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 Tbs (45 ml) pine nuts (pignoli)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tsp (5 ml) salt, or to taste
Combine all ingredients in and electric blender and
process until smooth, stopping the blender once or
twice to scrape down the sides of the jar. When
serving with pasta, "loosen" the sauce with a little
bit of the boiling water from the pasta pot. Makes
about 2 cups (500 ml).
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Traditional recipes for this risotto call for beef
marrow, but since that may not be available to all
of my readers I have eliminated it from this recipe.
Milanese Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)
4 cups (1 L) beef broth
2 Tbs (30 ml) diced prosciutto
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots or yellow
onion
5 Tbs (75 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2 cups (500 ml) raw arborio rice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) powdered or finely chopped saffron
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) Parmesan cheese
Bring the broth to slow simmer. In a separate pot
saute the prosciutto and shallots in 3 Tbs (45 ml)
of the butter and all of the oil. Add the rice as
soon as the shallots become translucent and stir
until the rice is well coated with the fat. Add
about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the broth and stir
frequently until most of the broth has been
absorbed. Continue adding the broth 1/2 cup (125 ml)
at a time, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Add
the saffron and continue adding broth as it becomes
absorbed, cooking an additional 5 minutes, or until
the rice is cooked "al dente," still firm to the
tooth. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
and the Parmesan cheese, and serve immediately.
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This dish truly is one of my favorites. I frequently
serve it as a main course. Once you cook it the
first time and see for yourself how easy (and
delicious) it is, you will almost certainly add it
to your repertoire of "I don't really feel like
cooking tonight" recipes.
Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Funghi)
1 ounce (30 g) dried mushrooms, any variety or
combination
of varieties
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots or onion
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
2 cups (500 ml) raw Italian Arborio rice*
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
*Arborio rice really is the secret to this dish, and
is available in finer supermarkets and specialty
shops. Long-grained rice may be used, but the
results will be inferior.
Soak mushrooms in 2 cups warm water for at least 30
minutes, until the mushrooms are soft. Remove from
the water and chop coarsely. Strain the water
through a coffee filter and combine it with the 2
cups of chicken stock in a saucepan. Bring this
mixture to a simmer over medium heat. In a heavy
2-qt (2 L) pot over medium heat saute the shallots
in 2 Tbs of butter and 3 Tbs olive oil until
translucent but not brown. Add the rice, stir to
thoroughly coat with the oil and butter, and saute
for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine or 1/2 cup of the
simmering stock, stirring frequently. When the
liquid is almost completely absorbed add another 1/2
cup stock, and repeat this process for 15 minutes,
stirring frequently. Add the mushrooms and continue
adding stock as it becomes absorbed for another 5 to
10 minutes, until the rice is done. You may have
some stock left over; do not feel compelled to use
it all, as this will make the risotto too runny.
Test the rice for doneness by tasting it; it should
be "al dente" (soft but still firm to the tooth) and
the risotto should be creamy at this stage. When the
rice is cooked remove the pot from the heat and stir
in the Parmesan cheese and the remaining 2 Tbs of
butter. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if
necessary. Serves 4 to 6.
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This dish is very similar to the original fettuccine
Alfredo, except that Alfredo didn't use cream in his
dish. Think of it as the Italian version of macaroni
and cheese-it's about the easiest and possibly the
best way there is to dress pasta.
Pasta with Butter and Cheese (Pasta al Burro e
Formaggio)
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter cut into small pieces
1 lb (450 g) dried pasta such as spaghetti,
rigatoni, or conchiglie, cooked according to package
directions and drained
1 cup (250 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
Place the butter in a large bowl. Add the pasta and
half the cheese, tossing to combine. Add the
remaining cheese and cream and toss again. Serves 4
to 6.
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I have to confess that I am a confirmed carnivore
and usually feel cheated after a meatless meal. Not
so with pasta. In fact, in restaurants I have been
know to choose meatless pasta dishes over meat
dishes many times. Here's a dish to try on the "meat
and potatoes" person in your life.
Pasta with Peppers (Pasta Peperonata)
4 Tbs (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 red bell peppers (capsicums), seeded and sliced
2 green bell peppers (capsicums), seeded and sliced
2 yellow bell peppers (capsicums0, seeded and sliced
3 medium onions, sliced
1 large red onion, sliced
8-10 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine or water
1 tsp (5 ml) sugar
15-20 oil-cured black olives, pitted and coarsely
chopped (optional)
4 Tbs (60 ml) capers (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12-16 oz (350-450 g) pasta of your choice,
cooked according to package directions
Parmesan cheese
Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat.
Saute the peppers, onions, and garlic, stirring
frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the wine or water and
simmer covered for 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar and
cook uncovered for 20 minutes, until the mixture is
very soft and lightly browned. Add the optional
olives and capers and season with salt and pepper.
Toss with the cooked pasta and serve immediately
with Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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"Alla carbonara" means in the style of the charcoal
maker's wife, and refers to the garnish of black
pepper which, supposedly, resembles bits of charcoal
that have fallen onto the dish. Use the unsmoked
Italian bacon called pancetta if at all possible, or
a lightly smoked American bacon as an alternative.
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
4 oz (100 g) pancetta, or 6 slices bacon, cut into
1/4-inch (5 mm) dice
4 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Pecorino Romano or
Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) dried spaghetti or pasta of choice
Saute the pancetta or bacon until golden brown.
Drain on paper towels. Combine the eggs, half the
cheese, cream, salt, and pepper in a large serving
bowl and beat to combine thoroughly. Cook the pasta
according to the package directions until al dente
(firm to the bite). Drain and immediately add to the
serving bowl, tossing to coat the pasta with the
sauce. The hot pasta will cook the eggs and make the
sauce thicken. If necessary, return the pasta with
the sauce to the cooking pot and shake over very low
heat until the sauce thickens. Top with the cooked
pancetta, the remaining cheese, and a generous
grinding of pepper. Serves 4 to 6.
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Several dishes from the Naples area are named for
the local volcano, hence the "alla Vesuviana"
appellation of this classic dish.
Spaghetti with Olives and Capers (Spaghetti alla
Vesuviana)
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
A pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups (500 ml) canned tomatoes with their liquid,
chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 green olives, pitted and chopped
8-12 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 tsp (5 ml) chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1/2 tsp
(2 ml) dried
1 lb (450 g) spaghetti or other thin noodle, cooked
according to package directions
Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat
and saute the garlic and red pepper flakes for about
2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and
cook uncovered until most of the liquid has
evaporated, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the olives,
capers, and oregano and cook for 5 minutes. Add the
cooked pasta to the skillet and toss to combine.
Serves 4 to 6.
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Side Dishes (Contorni)
Most of my American readers know this dish and may
not realize that its use of mozzarella and tomato
sauce marks it as a dish typical of the area
surrounding Naples.
Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane)
2 medium-sized eggplants, washed and cut into 1/2
inch (1 cm) slices
1/2 cup (125 ml) bread crumbs
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
1/2 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour
2 eggs, well beaten
6 Tbs (90 ml) olive oil
3 cups (750 ml) marinara sauce (see below)
8 oz (250 g) mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sprinkle the eggplant slices lightly with salt and
place on paper
towels for 30 minutes to drain. Mix bread crumbs
and oregano on a
plate. Dry the eggplant slices, dust with flour,
dip in beaten eggs,
and cover with bread crumb mixture. Heat the olive
oil in a skillet
over medium heat and saute the eggplant slices until
medium brown,
about 5 minutes per side. Place a thin coating of
marinara sauce in
the bottom of a baking pan large enough to hold the
eggplant in a
single layer. Arrange the eggplant slices on the
sauce. Place a
slice of mozzarella on top of each eggplant slice
and sprinkle with
the Parmesan. Cover with the remaining marinara
sauce. Bake in a
325F (165C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 6 to
8.
Marinara Sauce
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
16 sprigs of fresh parsley (leaves only), chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 cups (1 L) plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely
chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) dried oregano
6 anchovy fillets (optional)
2 Tbs (30 ml) tomato paste
Heat the olive oil in a sauce pan over moderate
heat. Add the garlic
and parsley and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring
frequently. Do not
brown. Add the tomatoes, oregano, salt, and pepper,
and simmer over
low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add
the optional
anchovies and tomato paste and stir well. Taste and
adjust seasoning
if necessary. Makes approximately 3 cups.
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In Italy this dish would be made with fresh
artichokes, but my readers everywhere else will
probably find that canned or frozen artichoke hearts
are a much more economical, time-saving, and
labor-saving alternative.
Fried Artichoke Hearts (Carciofi Friti)
1 cup (250 ml) bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 ml) grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 artichoke hearts, thawed if using frozen,
quartered
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Extra-virgin olive oil for frying
Lemon wedges for garnish
Combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, salt, and pepper
in a shallow bowl. Dip the artichoke hearts in the
eggs, then roll in the bread crumb mixture. Heat
about 1 inch (3 cm) of the oil in a skillet over
high until some bread crumbs sizzle immediately when
dropped in. Fry the artichokes in batches until
golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Drain
on paper towels and serve with lemon wedges. Serves
4 to 6.
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Here is a version on mashed potatoes with an Italian
twist.
Mashed Potatoes with Parmesan Cheese (Puré di Patate
al Parmigiano)
1 lb (500 g) boiling potatoes
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1/2 cup (125 ml) milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and white pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Boil the unpeeled potatoes in enough salted water to
cover. When the potatoes are easily penetrated with
a fork, drain and cool just enough to handle. Peel
the potatoes and press through a potato ricer or
food mill. Combine the riced potatoes, butter, and
milk in a pan and beat with a whisk or fork over low
heat until the potatoes, butter, and milk are
thoroughly combined. Add the Parmesan, salt, pepper,
and nutmeg and continue to beat over low heat until
the cheese is melted and thoroughly incorporated.
Serve immediately, or hold at room temperature for
up to 2 hours and reheat over low heat or in a
microwave oven. Serves 4.
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These peppers combine their natural sweetness with
the acidity of the vinegar to make an unusually good
combination of flavors. Serve them as part of an
antipasto platter, top a bruschetta with them, or
serve them as a side dish with just about anything.
Peppers in Vinegar (Peperoni in Aceto)
6 red bell peppers (capsicums), quartered, seeded,
and cored
1/2 cup (125 ml) red wine or balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients in a skillet over low
heat and cook covered until tender, 25 to 30
minutes. Cool and serve at room temperature. Serves
4 to 6 as an appetizer.
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Although written accounts of broccoli in America
date back to 1755, this Italian import was virtually
unknown on these shores until the 1920s. Today it is
one of the favorite vegetables of Americans, the
prejudices of a certain former president
notwithstanding.
Sauteed Broccoli (Broccoli Saltati)
1 large bunch broccoli, about 1 lb (900 g)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1-3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) balsamic or red wine vinegar
2-3 anchovy fillets, mashed (optional)
Cut the broccoli into florets and peel and slice the
stem. Heat the oil in a large deep skillet over
moderate heat and add the broccoli, garlic, salt,
and pepper. Saute 6 to 8 minutes, stirring
frequently, until the broccoli is tender but crisp.
Add the vinegar and optional anchovies and serve
immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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These onions can also be served as an antipasto or
as part of an elegant buffet.
Stuffed Onions (Cipolle Ripiene)
2-3 large onions, ends trimmed, peeled, and halved
horizontally
Salt to taste
2 slices white bread, crusts removed
2 Tbs (30 ml) milk
1 Tbs (15 ml) capers, finely chopped
2-3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 egg, beaten
2-3 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Place the onions cut side up on a baking sheet and
sprinkle with salt. Bake in a 375F (190C) oven until
the onions are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. While the
onions are cooling, soak the bread in the milk in a
small bowl. Mash the bread with a fork to make a
smooth paste and stir in the egg, capers, and
anchovies. When the onions are cool enough to
handle, scoop out the centers of the onions leaving
hollow shells of 2 or 3 layers. Chop the scooped out
onion finely and stir into the bread mixture. Spoon
the mixture into the hollowed onions and drizzle
with olive oil. Return to the oven and bake until
golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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Main Dishes (Secondi Piati)
Lamb shanks are a favorite item in my family, but
our local supermarket never carries them so I tend
to stock up on them whenever I find them in more
distant locations. As a result I usually have some
in the freezer, and this is one of our favorite ways
to cook them.
Braised Lamb Shanks (Stinchi di Agnello)
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 lamb shanks, trimmed of excess fat
2 carrots, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
1 onion, chopped
3-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig fresh rosemary, or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
1 15-ounce (425 g) can tomatoes with their liquid
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a heavy pot large enough to hold the
lamb shanks over moderate heat and brown the lamb
shanks on all sides. Transfer the shanks to a plate
and set aside. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and
garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 10
minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and return
the lamb shanks to the pot. Reduce the heat to low
and simmer tightly covered until the lamb is tender
and falling off the bone, 2 to 3 hours, adding water
or additional wine if necessary. Serves 4 to 6.
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I actually first sampled this dish in Venice, where
it was on the menu of a small inexpensive restaurant
I stumbled upon. When I got home to the USA I sought
out a cookbook containing the recipe, and it
described the dish as one that even people who don't
like liver will enjoy. I can't vouch for that since
I like liver, but you might try it on any
"liver-haters" in your house.
Calf's Liver Venetian Style (Fegato alla Veneziana)
2 lbs (1 Kg) calf's liver, very thinly sliced
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
2 large onions, very thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Trim the liver of any membranes and veins. Cut into
match stick size pieces about 1/4 inch (5 mm) wide
and 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Heat the oil in a large
skillet over moderate heat and saute the onions for
20 to 25 minutes, until limp and slightly browned.
Remove the onions to a plate, leaving as much oil in
the skillet as possible. Turn the heat to high and
saute the liver for 3 to 4 minutes, just until it
loses its pink color. Add the onions and season with
salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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If there is a parcel of land that has contributed
more to the gastronomic lexicon than the northern
Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, I would like to
know about it. The capital city of Bologna is the
home of many unique and delicious sausages,
including mortadella which is the ancestor of our
American "baloney." The region also contains the
city of Parma whose "parmesano" is perhaps the best
known of all the world's cheeses, and the
surrounding area produces prosciutto ham. As if that
weren't enough, the city of Modena contributed
balsamic vinegar to the food lovers of the world.
This classic dish makes good use of the cheese and
ham that Emilia-Romagna is justifiably famous for.
Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto and Cheese (Petti di
Pollo alla Bolognese)
4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, about
1/2 lb (250 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Flour for dredging
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
8 thin slices prosciutto ham, about 2x4 inches (5x10
cm)
8 thin slices Fontina or Bel Paese cheese, about 2x4
inches (5x10 cm)
4 tsp (20 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Using a very sharp knife, carefully slice each
chicken breast in half horizontally, to make 8
pieces. Place between layers of wax paper or plastic
wrap and pound with the flat side of a cleaver or
the bottom of a heavy saucepan to flatten slightly.
Season with salt and pepper and dust lightly with
flour, shaking off the excess. Heat the butter and
olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, and
brown the chicken to a light golden color, 3 or 4
slices at a time. Do not overcook. Transfer the
chicken to a baking dish large enough to hold them
comfortably. Place a slice of prosciutto and then a
slice of cheese on top of each. Sprinkle with the
Parmesan cheese and bake uncovered in a preheated
350F (180C) for about 10 minutes, or until the
cheese is melted and slightly brown. Serves 4.
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If you don't have fresh sage for this dish, it would
be better to use another herb such as fresh rosemary
or tarragon instead of dried sage.
Chicken Breasts with Sage (Petti di Pollo alla
Salvia)
4-6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin
olive oil
15-20 whole fresh sage leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
Combine the chicken breasts, lemon juice, 1/4 cup
(60 ml) of the olive oil, the sage leaves, salt, and
pepper in a non-reactive bowl, tossing to combine.
Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 30
minutes. Remove the chicken from the marinade and
pat dry. Remove the sage leaves from the marinade
and reserve both. Heat the remaining olive oil and
butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat
and cook the chicken breasts until golden brown on
the bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn the chicken
breasts, add the sage leaves, and cook until the
chicken is browned on both sides and cooked through,
5 to 10 minutes more. Transfer the chicken and sage
leaves to a warm platter. Discard the oil in the
skillet and add the reserved marinade, scraping the
pan to dissolve the brown bits. Cook, stirring
constantly, until reduced to a brown glaze, 1 to 2
minutes, and pour over the chicken. Serve
immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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Salmoriglio, a simple sauce from Sicily, is used to
add flavor to seafood and poultry dishes all over
Italy.
Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al
Salmoriglio)
4-6 fillets of firm white fish such as swordfish,
halibut, or cod
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For the salmoriglio sauce:
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) finely chopped fresh oregano leaves
or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (optional)
Season the fish generously with salt and pepper and
grill over hot coals or under a preheated broiler
until firm and opaque. Combine the ingredients for
the sauce in a bowl and whisk vigorously to make an
emulsion. Spoon over the cooked fish and serve
immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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People who know me know that I love lamb and that I
am inordinately fond of olives. It will come as no
surprise to them that this is one of my favorite
dishes.
Lamb Stew with Olives (Spezzatino di Agnello alle
Olive)
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 lbs (900 g) boneless shoulder of lamb, cut into
1-inch (3 cm) cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 Tbs
(15 ml) dried
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) whole tomatoes, chopped, with
their liquid
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley
12-18 kalamata olives, pitted if desired
Heat the oil in the bottom of a large, heavy pot
over high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper
and, working in batches, brown the lamb on all sides
in the oil, transferring it to a plate when it is
browned. Lower the heat to medium and saute the
garlic and rosemary in the same pot for about 1
minute. Add the wine and stir to dissolve the brown
bits in the bottom of the pot. Add the tomatoes and
meat to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat
and simmer covered, stirring occasionally, until the
meat is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add the parsley
and olives and cook for 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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The bollito misto is a classic Italian meal, and
many restaurants have earned their reputations on
this dish alone. In its most elevated form a bollito
misto may include a dozen types of meats, including
beef, pork, chicken, turkey, tongue, and various
forms of sausages. Such elaborate versions are best
left to restaurants, but a simpler version is
popular with home cooks, especially because the
leftover meats can provide several meals later in
the week. This one-pot version also provides an
excellent Italian-style meat broth which I suggest
you freeze and use for soups.
Mixed Boiled Meats (Bollito Misto)
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) chicken parts
1-2 lbs (450-900 g) veal or pork neck bones or ribs
1 lb (450 g) beef chuck roast
1 lb (450 ml) veal breast or shoulder
6-8 mild Italian sausages (optional)
6-8 beef marrow bones (optional)
2-3 carrots, coarsely chopped
2-3 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1-2 ripe tomatoes, quartered
1-2 onions, peeled and quartered
1 small bunch fresh parsley
1-2 Tbs (15-30 ml) whole black peppercorns
Salt to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil far garnish
Combine all the ingredients except the olive oil in
a large pot and add enough water to cover by about 2
inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 3 to 4
hours, skimming off the scum as it rises to the
surface. To serve, lift the meats out of the broth,
carve the chicken and slice the meats. Serve with a
little of the broth spooned over the meat to keep it
moist, and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil.
Strain the remaining broth and save for other uses.
Serves 6 to 8.
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Stuffed beef rolls are popular all over Italy, and
it is one of those dishes for which there are as
many variations as there are cooks. This is one way
they're done in the vicinity of Naples.
Neapolitan Beef Rolls (Braciole Napolitane)
1 1/2 (675 g) thinly sliced beef bottom round
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 oz (170 g) fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
12-18 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Romano or Parmesan
cheese
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry bread crumbs
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Pound the beef slices between sheets of plastic wrap
until they are no more than 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick,
trimming them with a knife if necessary to form
pieces about 4x6 inches (10x15 cm). Season with salt
and pepper and place a slice of mozzarella on each
slice. Sprinkle with the olives, grated cheese,
capers, and bread crumbs, and drizzle with olive
oil. Roll up the beef loosely and secure each roll
with a toothpick. Grill over hot coals, cook under a
preheated broiler, or saute in a skillet over high
heat until browned on both sides and cooked through.
Serves 4 to 6.
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Although I treat it as a main dish here, this
classic peel-it-yourself shrimp dish from Venice
also makes a wonderful appetizer. However you serve
it, be sure to include plenty of crusty bread for
sopping up the sauce.
Shrimp Venetian-Style (Scampi alla Veneziana)
1/2 cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 lbs (675 g) large shrimp in their shells
4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp (2 ml) hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat
and saute the shrimp, garlic, thyme, and red pepper
flakes until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 4
minutes-do not overcook. Season with salt and
pepper and serve garnished with chopped parsley.
Serves 4 to 6.
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Many Italian-Americans are surprised at the quantity
and variety of seafood they find when they go to
Italy because it is much more abundant and
affordable than it is here.
Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro
e Alloro)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 tuna steaks, about 6 oz (170 g) each, and about
3/4 inch (2 cm) thick
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2-3 large tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 bay (laurel) leaves
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
Chopped parsley for garnish
Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat.
Season the tuna steaks on both sides with salt and
pepper and cook just long enough to lightly brown on
both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the
tuna to a plate and set aside. Reduce the heat to
medium and add the onion to the skillet. Saute until
tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add
the tomatoes, bay leaves, wine, and vinegar and cook
uncovered until the tomatoes have formed a thick
sauce, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the tuna to the pan
and cook covered until the tuna is done to the
degree of doneness you prefer, 2 to 3 minutes for
medium rare, or 8 to 10 minutes for well done.
Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.
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Desserts (Dolci)
This easy cake makes a simple but tasty dessert, and
can also be served for breakfast or as an afternoon
snack.
Almond Cake (Torta di Mandorle)
8 oz (225 g) unblanched almonds
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (10 ml) baking powder
A pinch of salt
12 Tbs (1 1/2 sticks, 165 g) butter at room
temperature
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
4 eggs, separated
Combine the almonds, flour, baking powder, and salt
in an electric food processor and process until the
almonds are finely chopped. Transfer the mixture to
a mixing bowl. Beat the butter and sugar together
until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and beat
until thoroughly combined. Add the butter mixture to
the almond mixture and mix thoroughly with a wooden
spoon. Beat the egg whites until they form stiff
peaks and fold into the batter with a rubber
spatula. Pout the batter into a greased and floured
9-inch (23 cm) springform pan and bake in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven until a toothpick
inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45
minutes. Cool on a wire before removing from the
pan. Serves 8 to 12.
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This frozen delight from Italy will become a family
favorite, and it's easy enough that you can make it
a "special treat" as often as you like.
Cassata
This recipe calls for uncooked egg whites. If
salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please
be sure to use pasteurized eggs.
1 1/2 qts (1.5 L) vanilla ice cream, softened
1 qt (1 L) raspberry sherbet, softened
3/4 qt (750 ml) pistachio ice cream, softened
1/2 cup (125 ml) diced candied fruit
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum (optional)
3 egg whites
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) whipping cream
For the garnish:
1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream
Candied fruit
Line a 4-quart (4 L) mold or bowl with the vanilla
ice cream and freeze until firm. Cover the vanilla
ice cream evenly with the raspberry sherbet and
freeze until solid. Repeat the process with the
pistachio ice cream. Beat the egg whites until
foamy, and slowly beat in the sugar. Whip the cream
until stiff. Fold the cream, candied
fruit, and optional rum into the egg whites, folding
gently until thoroughly combined. Spoon the egg
white mixture into the center of the molded ice
cream, spreading it evenly to form a smooth bottom
layer. Cover and freeze until firm. The dish may be
kept frozen for up to two weeks at this stage. To
unmold, dip the outside of the mold
or bowl in hot water for 5 or 6 seconds and invert
onto a cold platter. Whip the remaining cup of
whipping cream until stiff and decorate the molded
ice cream with a pastry bag fitted with a decorative
tip. Garnish with the candied fruit. Alternately,
decorate the ice cream with the candied fruit, and
serve the whipped cream in a separate bowl for the
diners to serve themselves. Serves 12 to 16.
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This is a recipe I discovered years ago in "The
Classic Italian Cookbook" by Marcella Hazan. Sadly,
the book is out of print, but this recipe lives on.
Since my family seems to always have the required
ingredients on hand, it has come to the rescue many
times when a quick, elegant, and delicious dessert
was called for. You really have to taste it to
appreciate how the flavors in this recipe combine to
form an unexpected and unique taste treat.
Chimney Sweep Ice Cream (Gelato Spazzacamino)
1 large scoop vanilla ice cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) Scotch whisky
1/2 tsp (2 ml) extremely finely ground espresso
coffee beans*
* I have substituted finely ground regular coffee
beans, and even instant coffee in a pinch.
Place the ice cream in a serving bowl, pour the
Scotch whisky over it, and sprinkle with the coffee.
Serves 1.
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Flourless chocolate cakes are popular everywhere
these days, and Italy is no exception. Here's how
they serve it in Milano:
Chocolate Cake (Torta di Cioccolato)
1 lb (450 g) good quality semisweet chocolate,
chopped
1/2 lb (225 g) unsalted butter
5 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) Amaretto liqueur, creme de menthe,
rum, or spirit of your choice (optional)
Whipped cream for garnish (optional)
Fresh berries for garnish (optional)
Combine the chocolate and butter in a bowl and melt
in the microwave or place the bowl over a pot of
simmering water, mixing well with a rubber spatula.
Combine the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl and
beat until smooth and pale yellow. Stir in the
chocolate mixture and optional Amaretto. Pour into a
greased 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan and bake in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven for 10 minutes. Cover the
pan with aluminum foil and bake an additional 15
minutes. Cool to room temperature and then
refrigerate overnight. To serve, run a knife around
the side of the pan before removing the outer ring
of the springform pan. Serve chilled, topped with
whipped cream and/or fresh berries if desired.
Serves 8 to 12.
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For an authentic taste of Italy, serve these
individual puddings with amaretti or biscotti.
Chocolate Flan (Budini di Cioccolato)
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
2/3 cup (160 ml) milk
8 oz (225 g) good quality bittersweet chocolate,
finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) espresso or very strong coffee
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
Bring the cream and milk to a simmer over moderate
heat. Remove from the heat and a\dd the chocolate,
stirring until completely melted. Whisk in the
remaining ingredients. Pour unto 6 lightly buttered
custard cups or ramekins and place them in a
roasting pan. Add enough boiling water to the
roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the
custard cups. Bake in a preheated 325F (165C) oven
until the custards are set around the edges and
still trembling in the centers, 45 to 50 minutes.
Remove from the oven, remove the custard cups from
the water bath, and serve warm, chilled, or at room
temperature. Serves 6.
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The combination of espresso, rum, chocolate, and
whipped cream will be familiar to lovers of
tiramisu.
Diplomat Cake (Il Diplomatico)
Note: This recipe contains uncooked eggs. If
salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please
be sure to use pasteurized eggs.
1/2 cup (125 ml) espresso or very strong coffee
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum
4 Tbs (60 ml) sugar
1 pound cake, about 12 oz (340 g), store-bought or
from your favorite recipe
6 eggs, separated
8 oz (225 g) semi-sweet chocolate, melted
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
About 1 cup (250 ml) berries such as raspberries,
strawberries, blueberries, or combination of these
(optional)
Combine the espresso, water, rum, and 1 tablespoon
(15 ml) of the sugar in a small bowl and set aside.
Line a loaf pan with wax paper. Cut the pound cake
into 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices and line the bottom and
the sides of the loaf pan. Dab the cake with the
coffee mixture using a pastry brush. The cake should
be soaked but not mushy. Beat the egg yolks and 2
tablespoons (30 ml) of the sugar until smooth and
pale yellow. Fold in the melted chocolate until
thoroughly combined. Whip the egg whites until stiff
peaks form and fold into the chocolate mixture. Pour
the mixture into the loaf pan and cover with a layer
of the pound cake. Dab with the remaining coffee
mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate
overnight. When ready to serve, whip the cream with
the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar. Unmold the
cake onto a serving plate and discard the wax paper.
Garnish with the whipped cream and fresh berries if
desired. Serves 6 to 8.
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Granite (singular: granita) are found all over
Italy. They are so typically Italian (in the USA
they are usually called "Italian ices"), and so
good, not to mention fat-free, that I just had to
publish them.
Italian Ices (Granite)
For lemon flavored:
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) lemon juice
For orange flavored:
2 cups (500 ml) water
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) orange juice
For coffee flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) extra strong espresso coffee
For cappuccino flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) extra strong espresso coffee
1/2 cup (125 ml) non-fat milk
For strawberry flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 cups fresh strawberries, pureed in an
electric blender or food processor
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
(If using frozen strawberries, reduce the amount of
sugar
to 1/4 cup, 60 ml)
Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring
to a boil over high heat, stirring just until the
sugar is dissolved. Boil uncovered for exactly 5
minutes, remove from the heat immediately, and allow
to cool to room temperature. Add the remaining
ingredients, stir, and pour into a metal pan, such
as a cake pan. Freeze for 3 to 4 hours, stirring
every 30 minutes with a fork and scraping the ice
crystals that form around the edge of the pan. When
finished, the granita should have a fine, crumbly
texture, like coarse snow. For a coarser texture
that is preferred by some, freeze the liquid in ice
cube trays, and then crush the cubes in an ice
crusher or food processor immediately prior to
serving. Each recipe makes about 3 cups (750 ml).
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Italians rarely serve more that cheese and fruit for
dessert, and elaborate, baked concoctions are
typically reserved for special occasions. This
classic cake from Bologna is an Easter treat, and it
has become a favorite in my family where we enjoy it
at any time of year.
Rice Cake (Torta di Riso)
4 cups (1 L) milk
1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt
2-3 strips of lemon peel, yellow part only
1 cup (250 ml) sugar
1/3 cup (80 ml) uncooked rice, preferably arborio or
other short-grained variety
4 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) blanched almonds, toasted and
chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) candied citron or mixed candied
fruits, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum (optional)
Butter and unflavored bread crumbs
Bring the milk, salt, and lemon peel to a boil in a
saucepan over moderate heat. Add the rice and stir.
Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and simmer
uncovered for 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally,
until the mixture is dense and pale brown. Remove
and discard the lemon peel and set aside to cool.
Beat the eggs gently in a mixing bowl and add the
rice mixture a little at a time, stirring to
incorporate. Add the almonds, citron, and the
optional rum, mixing to combine thoroughly.
Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 6x9 inch
(15x23 cm) cake pan and coat with bread crumbs. Pour
the batter into the pan and bake in a preheated 350F
(180C) oven for 1 hour. Allow the cake to cool
before inverting onto a serving plate. Allow to rest
at room temperature at least 24 hours before
serving. Will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up
to 1 week. Serves 6 to 8.
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Ricotta is a very popular flavor of ice cream in
Italy. Do you think the rum might have something to
do with that?
Ricotta Ice Cream (Gelato di Ricotta)
1 vanilla bean
2 cups (500 ml) milk
6 egg yolks
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) ricotta cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) dark rum (optional)
Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape
the black paste (the seeds) from the inside with the
tip of a knife. Combine the vanilla seeds, the split
pod, and the milk in a pot and bring to a simmer
over moderate heat. Remove from the heat, let steep
for 15 minutes, and remove the vanilla pod. (Place
it in a jar with sugar to make vanilla sugar.) Whisk
together the egg yolks and sugar until fluffy and
pale yellow in color. Set aside. Return the milk to
the heat and bring to a simmer again. Remove from
the heat and stir about 1/3 of the milk into the egg
mixture. Add the resulting egg yolk mixture to the
pan with the remainder of the milk and stir to
combine. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly,
until the mixture thickens slightly or it reaches
185F (85C) on an instant-read thermometer. Remove
from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
Cool in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally,
until cold to the touch, about 30 minutes. Combine
the ricotta, cream, and optional rum in a bowl and
whisk until smooth and thoroughly combined. Fold the
ricotta mixture into the egg mixture. Transfer to an
ice cream maker and freeze according to the
manufacturer's directions. Makes about 1 quart (1
L).
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"Tiramisu" means "pick me up" or "carry me up" in
Italian, and perhaps heaven is the implied
destination. This dessert has become very trendy in
the United States in the past few years, but it is a
true Italian classic in spite of its popularity in
fern bars and nationwide chains. If you are lucky
enough to have access to imported Italian
savoiardi, then please use them. Otherwise, any
store-bought ladyfingers will do just fine.
Tiramisu
Note: This recipe contains uncooked eggs. If
salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please
be sure to use pasteurized eggs.
3 eggs, separated
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
8 oz (225 g) mascarpone
About 24 imported Italian savoiardi or ladyfingers
1/4 cup (60 ml) very strong espresso coffee
1 Tbs (15 ml) brandy or sherry
1 oz (28 g) bittersweet chocolate, grated with a
vegetable peeler
Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. In a
separate bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar
until creamy and light yellow in color. Blend in the
mascarpone, and then fold in the egg whites. Place a
single layer of about 12 ladyfingers in the bottom
of a 10-inch (25 cm) square pan. Combine the coffee
and brandy in a small bowl and, using a pastry
brush, soak the ladyfingers with half the mixture.
Spread half the mascarpone mixture over the
ladyfingers, and sprinkle with half the grated
chocolate. Repeat with another layer of ladyfingers
brushed with the remaining liquid and topped with
the remaining mascarpone mixture. Reserve the
remaining grated chocolate for a last-minute
garnish. Refrigerate covered for at least 3 hours
or overnight. Serve chilled or at room temperature,
garnished with grated chocolate. Serves 6 to 8.
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The name of this dish translates as "English soup,"
possible because of its resemblance to trifle, the
prototypical English dessert, and because it's eaten
with a spoon. You can make the pound cake from your
favorite recipe if you like, but I'm sure you'll
find that a store-bought pound cake will work almost
as well.
Zuppa Inglese
6 egg yolks
1 cup (250 ml) powdered (confectioner's) sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) all-purpose flour
3 cups (750 ml) milk, preferably whole
The grated zest of 1 lemon
1 pound cake, about 12 oz (340 g), cut lengthwise
into 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices
1/4 cup (60 ml) grenadine syrup
2 Tbs (30 ml) cognac
2Tbs (30 ml) Grand Marnier
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum
2 oz (56 g) semisweet chocolate, melted in
the microwave or double boiler
1/4 cup (60 ml) slivered almonds
Beat the egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer
until fluffy and pale yellow. Add the flour and mix
on low speed. Meanwhile, bring the milk to a simmer
in a pot over moderate heat-do not boil. With the
mixer going, slowly pour the scalded milk into the
egg mixture. Transfer the mixture to the saucepan
and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until
the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Remove from
the heat and stir in the lemon zest. Place about 1/2
cup (125 ml) of the custard in a 2- to 3-quart (2-3
L) serving dish at least 2 inches (5 cm) deep. Place
about one third of the pound cake over the custard.
Combine the grenadine, cognac, Grand Marnier, and
rum in a small bowl and drizzle, spoon, or brush
about one third of the mixture over the pound cake.
Spread one third of the remaining custard over the
pound cake, add another layer of pound cake, and
drizzle with half the remaining grenadine mixture.
Divide the remaining custard mixture in half and
stir the melted chocolate into one half. Spread the
chocolate custard over the pound cake, add the final
layer of pound cake, drizzle with the remaining
grenadine mixture, and top with the remaining
custard. Sprinkle the slivered almonds over the top,
cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
Serve chilled. Serves 6 to 8.
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