"Can't Get Enough
Pasta" really sums up this week's theme
perfectly because I have never met a pasta
dish I didn't like. We'll start the week
with a couple of fundamental recipes and
then we'll move on to some of my favorite
pasta dishes. Here is the lineup:
Recipes in brackets are in the PLUS Edition.
Monday's Entrees
Basic Recipe for Fresh Pasta
[Classic Ravioli]
Tuesday's Entrees
How to Cook Dried Pasta
[Fettuccine Alfredo]
Wednesday's Entrees
Indonesian Fried Noodles (Mie Goreng)
[Thai Sweet and Sour Fried Noodles (Mee Grob)]
Thursday's Entrees
Fettuccine with Sauce Monticello
[Fried Ravioli with Walnut Pesto]
Friday's Entrees
Pasta with Garlic and Basil
[Rigatoni in Vodka Cream Sauce (Rigatoni
alla Bettola)]
The following recipe requires a pasta
machine for kneading, rolling, and cutting
the pasta. They can be bought for as little
as $20 in any gourmet shop or department
store, and the investment will return a
lifetime of fresh pasta. Please insist on
the type with rollers, as the extruder types
don't knead the dough and produce an
inferior product. Amazon has several to
choose from, including
this one.
Basic Recipe for Fresh Pasta
2 1/2 cups (625 ml) all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
2 tsp (10 ml) olive oil
Place the flour in a
large mixing bowl or on a flat work surface
and form a well in the center. Beat the eggs
and oil together and pour into the well.
Using a fork, begin mixing the flour and egg
mixture in the center of the well, gradually
working towards the outside of the mound of
flour as the ingredients are combined. When
the mixture becomes too stiff to work with
the fork, begin incorporating the
ingredients with your hands until a ball of
dough is formed. The dough should be firm
enough to handle and not sticky. Adjust the
consistency with additional flour or a few
drops of water if necessary. Alternately,
the ingredients may be combined in an
electric food processor and processed until
a ball is formed. Knead the dough by running
it through the pasta machine set on its
widest setting six or seven times, folding
the dough in thirds after each pass and
dusting lightly with flour if the dough
becomes sticky. After kneading the dough
should be firm and have the texture of
smooth leather. Wrap the dough in plastic
wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes to 3
hours.
To make noodles, cut
the dough into 6 pieces and roll through the
pasta machine set on the widest setting
several more times, folding in thirds and
dusting lightly with flour if needed to
prevent sticking, then begin decreasing the
width by one notch with each successive pass
through the machine until the dough has
reached the desired thickness. Most noodles
require the thinnest setting, but thicker
noodles such as spaghetti and pappardelle
require only the next-to-last setting on the
machine. Let the dough dry for about 15
minutes and then pass through the cutting
mechanism on your machine, or cut by hand.
The cut noodles may be cooked immediately,
or may be frozen or dried and stored for
several weeks in an airtight container. To
dry, roll the noodles gently into small
"nests" or simply allow to dry flat.
To cook, boil at
least 4 quarts (4 L) of salted water for
this recipe. Add the pasta to the boiling
water and stir gently. Fresh pasta, even
when dried, cooks much faster than
commercial dried pasta. Depending on the
thickness of the noodles, the pasta will be
done in as little as 5 seconds, and in no
case should it take longer than 1 minute to
cook after the water has returned to the
boil. Test the pasta frequently and drain it
in a large colander as soon as it is tender
but still firm. Makes about 1 lb (500 g) to
serve 4 to 6.
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There are more myths
about cooking pasta than perhaps any other
kitchen endeavor; adding oil to the water
will not keep the pasta from sticking if you
don't cook it right; both under-cooked and
over-cooked pasta will stick to the wall if
properly thrown; and adding the salt to the
water immediately before adding the pasta is
completely devoid of scientific reasoning.
Following my recipe below will deliver
perfect results every time.
But first a word
about dried pasta. Buy only pasta that is
made from 100 percent durum wheat, also
known as semolina. There was a time when
only pasta imported from Italy could be
relied upon to be pure semolina pasta, but
that has changed. In fact, much of the pasta
made in Italy today is made from durum wheat
grown in South Dakota, so let price be your
guide - American brands frequently win in
blind taste tests.
How to Cook Dried
Pasta
One pound (450 g) of
dried pasta will serve four people as a main
course, and six to eight as a first course.
Boil at least 4 quarts (4 L) of water per
pound of pasta in a very large pot over high
heat. A large volume of water is necessary
in order that the water return to the boil
as fast as possible after adding the pasta,
so don't try to use less. Add 1 to 2
tablespoons (15 - 30 ml) of salt to the
water. This seems like a lot, but most of
the salt goes down the drain with the water.
Add salt unless you are on a strict
salt-restricted diet because unsalted pasta
tastes bland. Stir the pasta immediately and
let the water return to a boil. You may
cover the pot at this point in order to help
the water heat faster. Once the water has
returned to the boil, remove the cover and
stir the pasta every 2 to 3 minutes, more
frequently at the beginning than towards the
end of the cooking. Lower the heat but make
sure the water never stop boiling
vigorously; this helps to keep the pasta in
motion and prevents it from sinking to the
bottom of the pot and sticking together. Use
the cooking time on the package as a
guideline only - actual cooking times will
vary. Test the pasta by tasting a piece. It
should be tender but still firm to the tooth
(al dente). I also judge the doneness of my
pasta by the color - as it cooks it changes
color from a light yellow to a pale ivory
color, but the only sure method is tasting.
Drain the pasta quickly but not completely
and place it in a warm serving bowl - a
little of the cooking liquid will help it
remain tender and prevent it from sticking.
Sauce the pasta and serve immediately.
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This is a somewhat "internationalized"
version of an Indonesian classic, but it
retains all the flavors and aromas that
every
Indonesian knows.
Indonesian Fried Noodles (Mie Goreng)
1 lb (450 g) Chinese mein noodles, or
vermicelli or linguine
4 Tbs (60 ml) peanut oil
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 to 2 (to taste) fresh red chilli
peppers, seeded and diced
2 pork chops, meat removed from bone,
trimmed
and finely diced
1/2 lb (250 g) shrimp, shelled and
deveined
3 stalks celery, finely sliced
1 cup (250 ml) finely sliced bok choy or
green cabbage
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to
taste
3 Tbs soy sauce (or to taste)
For the garnish:
Fried onion flakes (recipe follows)
4 spring onions, both green and white
parts, finely sliced
1 cucumber, thinly sliced
Cook the noodles according to package
directions until 'al dente', or firm to
the tooth. Drain and immediately rinse
under cold water to stop the cooking.
Set aside. Heat the peanut oil in a wok
or large skillet over high heat and fry
the onion, garlic, and chilli pepper
until the onion is soft and golden. Add
the pork and the shrimp and stir until
cooked through. Add the celery, bok choy,
salt, and pepper, and stir for a minute
or two. You want the vegetables to be
hot but crisp. Add the cooked noodles
and continue stirring until the noodles
are heated through. Add the soy sauce
and pile onto a serving dish. Sprinkle
with the fried onion flakes and
scallions, and decorate the edge of the
plate with the sliced cucumber. Serve
immediately. Serves 6 to 8.
Fried Onion Flakes
In Indonesia these are made by deep
frying very thinly sliced shallots, but
an almost identical flavor can be
achieved by the following method.
1/4 cup (60 ml) dried onion flakes
Saute the dried onion flakes in a dry
saute pan over moderate heat, stirring
frequently, just until they become
aromatic and have turned a light golden
brown. These may be kept indefinitely
in an airtight container. Makes 1/4 cup
(60 ml).
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This is a recipe I developed several years
ago when I was an underpaid teacher with two
teenage boys to feed, and my sons naturally
wanted to know what I called it. Lacking
inspiration, I named it after the small town
in Georgia where I live. It's quick, easy,
inexpensive, and a crowd pleaser.
Fettuccine with Sauce Monticello
8 oz (250 g) sliced mushrooms
1 - 2 cans (15 oz, 425g each) chopped
tomatoes with liquid
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream or half-and-half
1 Tbs (15 ml) anchovy paste
Hot sauce to taste (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) fettuccine or pasta of your
choice, cooked according to package
directions
Combine the mushrooms, tomatoes, cream,
anchovy paste, optional hot sauce, salt, and
pepper in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until
reduced by about a third, 10 to 15 minutes.
Serve over cooked fettuccine. Serves 4 to 6.
The great thing about pasta is that it goes
well with just about everything. And since
the same can be said for garlic, the
combination is a natural.
Pasta with Garlic and Basil
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
10 - 15 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly
crushed
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped prosciutto or other
salt-cured ham
6 - 8 plum tomatoes, cored and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 - 1 1/2 lbs (450 - 675 g) cut pasta such
as penne, ziti, or rigatoni, cooked
according to the package directions
1 cup (250 ml) coarsely chopped fresh basil
leaves
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
Heat the oil in a pot large enough to hold
the cooked pasta over moderate heat. Saute
the garlic and ham until the garlic is a
deep golden brown. Add the tomatoes, salt,
and pepper and simmer covered for 15
minutes. Drain the pasta when it is tender
but firm (al dente) and add to the sauce.
Add the basil and toss the pasta in the
sauce, adding a little of the pasta water if
the sauce is too dry. Serve sprinkled with
Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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