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The
Cooking of Mexico
Index of Recipes
Basic Recipes
Tortillas
Plain Tamales (Tamales Blancos)
Turkey Stock
Sauces (Salsas)
Green
Sauce (Salsa Verde Cruda)
Guacamole
Mole Poblano
Pico de Gallo I
Pico de Gallo II
Pineapple and Black Bean Salsa (Salsa de Piña y
Frijoles Negros)
Tomato Sauce (Salsa
de Tomate)
Starters (Antojitos)
Avocado Stuffed with Shrimp Seviche (Aguacate
Relleno con Seviche de Camarones)
Cheese Tacos (Tacos de Queso)
Chicken Flautas (Flautas de Pollo)
Chilaquiles
Crab Quesadillas (Quesadillas de Cangrejo)
Melted Cheese with Chorizo (Queso Fundido con
Chorizo)
Toasted Chickpeas (Garbanzos Compuestos)
Tomatoes Stuffed with Guacamole (Jitomates Rellenos
de Guacamole)
Soups (Sopas)
Avocado Soup (Sopa de Aquacate)
Chicken and Almond Soup (Sopa de Pollo y Almendras)
Cream of Corn Soup (Crema de Elote)
Menudo
Mexican Soup (Sopa a la Mexicana)
Noodle Soup (Sopa de Fideos)
Tortilla-Ball Soup (Sopa de Bolitos de Tortilla)
Tortilla Soup (Sopa de Tortillas)
Turkey Soup (Sopa de Pavo)
Sides (Verduras)
Borracho Beans (Frijoles Borrachos)
Chayote Salad (Ensalada de Chayote)
Lima Beans (Habas Verdes)
Mexican Rice (Arroz a la Mexicana)
Mushrooms with Chipotles (Hongos con Chipotle)
Noodle "Dry Soup" (Sopa Seca de Fideos)
Pot Beans (Frijoles de la Olla)
Puebla-Style Rice (Arroz a la Poblana)
Refried Beans (Frijoles Refritos)
Stuffed Chiles I (Chiles Rellenos)
Stuffed Chiles II (Chiles Rellenos)
Vegetable Stew (Guiso de Verduras)
Zucchini Salad (Ensalada de Calabacitas)
Main Dishes (Platos Principales)
Beef
Fajitas
Beef Stew (Puchero)
Chicken Fajitas
Chicken in Green Sauce (Pollo en Salsa Verde)
Chicken Stew with Almonds (Pollo en Pipian de
Almendra)
Chiles in Walnut Sauce (Chiles en Nogada)
Chorizo Enchiladas with Guajillo Sauce
(Enchiladas de Chorizo)
Fish in Garlic Sauce (Pescado al Mojo de Ajo)
Fish in Orange Juice (Pescado Naranjado)
Fish with Cilantro (Pescado con Cilantro)
Green Chicken (Pollo Verde)
Picadillo
Pork and Hominy Stew (Pozole Rojo)
Red Snapper a la Veracruzana (Huachinango a la
Veracruzana)
Sinaloa-Style Grilled Chicken (Pollo a la Brasas)
Taco Salad
Desserts (Postres)
Almond Custard (Flan de Almendra)
Bread Pudding
(Capirotada)
Cheese Pie (Pay de Queso)
Chocolate Cake
Chocolate Custard (Flan de Chocolate)
Flan
Pineapple Pudding (Budín de Piña)
Rice Pudding (Arroz con Leche)
Royal Eggs (Huevos Reales)
Sopaipillas
Wedding Cookies (Pastelitos de Boda)
Breakfast & Brunch
(Desayuno)
Hot Chocolate (Chocolate)
Huevos Rancheros (Eggs Ranch Style)
Basic Recipes
Most Americans have ready access to fresh tortillas
these days as tortilla manufacturers began popping
up in major cities all over the country several
years ago. (I remember the days when the only
tortillas available came in a can, and I assure you,
those were not the "good old days," tortilla-wise.)
That's all well and good, but anyone who has made
their own fresh homemade tortillas will tell you
that even the best of the store-bought tortillas
can't compare. You can use a rolling pin if you
really want to, but I strongly suggest you buy an
inexpensive tortilla press for the best-and
easiest-tortillas on your block. Amazon.com has a
very good one
here.
Tortillas
2 cups (500 ml) masa harina (Mexican corn flour)
1 1/3 cups (330 ml) warm water
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
Mix the ingredients together to form a soft dough.
Roll into balls the size of small eggs and place
between two pieces of plastic wrap or waxed paper in
a tortilla press. Flatten to form round disks about
4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. (These are the most
popular size in Mexico, but they can be made smaller
or larger as you prefer.) If the dough sticks to the
plastic wrap it is too moist. Scrape it off the
plastic wrap and stir in a little more masa harina
until the flattened dough comes away from the
plastic wrap. Heat a large heavy skillet (or Mexican
comal if you have one) over moderate heat and cook
the tortillas one at a time until very lightly
browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side.
Note: the skillet should be dry and ungreased. Serve
immediately, or keep warm wrapped in aluminum foil
in a 150F (65C) oven for up to several hours before
serving. Makes about 24.
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Most of my readers will be more familiar with filled
tamales than with the unfilled ones, and you can use
this basic recipe as the starting point for both.
The filling can be made from any shredded or ground
meat mixture, or with mole poblano), or even with
sweet fillings made from fresh or dried fruits and
nuts. Filled tamales are often served as appetizers
or as a main course, but this plain, unfilled
version is most often served as a bread
accompaniment to other dishes.
Plain Tamales (Tamales Blancos)
1/3 cup (80 ml) lard
2 cups (500 ml) masa harina (Mexican corn flour)
1 1/2 tsp (7 ml) baking powder
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
About 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) warm chicken stock or
water
About 24 dried corn husks soaked in warm water for
30 minutes (kitchen parchment cut into 4x8-inch
(10x20 cm) pieces can be used in place of corn
husks)
Beat the lard until it is light and fluffy. Mix the
masa harina with the baking powder and salt and add
to the lard gradually, beating constantly. Gradually
add the warm stock until a mushy, wet dough forms.
Shake off the excess water from the corn husks and
spread a heaping tablespoon of the dough onto the
center of each corn husk. (If you are making filled
tamales, add about 1 tablespoon of the filling in
the center of the dough.) Fold the sides of the
husks over the dough, then fold the tops and bottoms
toward the center to make rectangular packages.
Stack the tamales upright in steamer, packing them
in next to each other so they will remain in a
vertical position. Steam until the dough comes away
from the husks when tested, about 1 hour. Serve hot
or at room temperature. Makes about 24.
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Make a large batch of turkey stock and freeze it to
make soups for weeks to come.
Turkey Stock
1 turkey carcass
Water to cover (about 8 cups, 2 L)
3 sprigs parsley
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 onions, quartered
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
2 bay (laurel) leaves
8 whole black peppercorns
Salt to taste
Combine all ingredients in a large pot and bring to
a boil over high heat. Skim off the foam that rises
to the surface, reduce the heat and simmer covered
for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Remove the carcass and strain
the stock through a fine sieve or a double layer of
cheesecloth, discarding the solids. Makes about 8
cups (2 L).
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Sauces (Salsas)
Salsa verde cruda simply means "raw green sauce"
in Spanish, and this classic Mexican table sauce is
great on meats, seafood, poultry, and as a dip for
crispy tortilla chips.
Green
Sauce (Salsa Verde Cruda)
1/2 lb (225 g) tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and
coarsely chopped
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2-4 green chile peppers such as jalapeño or serrano,
coarsely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
3-4 sprigs cilantro (coriander), chopped
Salt to taste
Combine all the ingredients in an electric blender
or food processor and process until a coarse,
slightly chunky sauce is produced, adding a little
water to loosen it if necessary. Makes about 2 cups
(500 ml).
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I doubt that any two dishes of guacamole have ever
been exactly the same, with every cook having his or
her own version. Here is a basic recipe which you
can modify and personalize at will.
Guacamole
2-3 ripe avocados, peeled and mashed
1 medium tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
2-3 canned serrano chiles*, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
Juice of 1 lime
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
* Available in finer supermarkets and Latin
specialty shops.
Combine all ingredients and mix well. Place in a
serving bowl and cover tightly if not serving
immediately. Serve with tortilla chips for
dipping. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.
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This is the fabled Mexican
sauce that features chocolate among its many
ingredients. Many fans of Mexican food in the USA
incorrectly refer to it simply as "mole" when in
fact it is one of many moles. (The term mole
comes from the Aztec word mollis
which refers to any sauce made with chiles.) This
mole is said to have originated in the city of
Puebla ("poblano" = "from Puebla") when some nuns
were forced to improvise a dish for a visiting
dignitary on short order. It is often served over
turkey, but is equally delicious with chicken or
pork. Mixed with shredded cooked pork, chicken, or
beef, it also makes a wonderful and traditional
filling for tacos, enchiladas, and tamales. I'll
provide the recipe for the
sauce, you provide the cooked meat of your choice.
Mole Poblano
6 ancho chiles
4 pasilla chiles*
4 mulato chiles*
2 cups (500 ml) warm chicken stock
3-4 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
3-4 sprigs cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 corn tortilla, torn into small pieces
1 cup (250 ml) blanched almonds
1/2 cup (125 ml) raisins
1/4 cup (60 ml) sesame seeds plus additional for
garnish
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground coriander seeds
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cloves
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cinnamon
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) lard or vegetable oil
1 1/2 oz (42 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
* If all pasilla or mulato chiles are not available
to you, use additional ancho chiles in their place
Remove and discard the stems and seeds from the
dried chiles. Tear into pieces and soak in the warm
chicken stock for 30 minutes. Working in batches,
combine the chiles and stock with the remaining
ingredients, except the lard and chocolate, in an
electric blender and process to form a thick paste.
Heat the lard in a pot over high heat and cook the
puree for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the
chocolate and stir until melted. The sauce should be
quite thick but may need to be thinned slightly with
a little chicken stock. Serve over cooked turkey,
chicken, or pork, garnished with sesame seeds. Makes
enough sauce to serve 8 to 12.
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Although there are dozens of
dishes known as pico
de gallo, salsa fresca, or salsa cruda found
throughout Mexico, this is the one you are most
likely to find in Mexican restaurants.
Pico de Gallo I
4-6 ripe tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 Tbs (15 ml) fresh lime juice
Chopped, seeded jalapeño or serrano peppers to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a serving bowl and serve
chilled or at room temperature. Serve with tortilla
chips. Makes 2 to 3 cups.
I am sure that most of my American readers are
familiar with the tomato-based pico de gallo served
in every Mexican restaurant. This
rendition hails from Jalisco, where it is served
with tortilla chips as an appetizer or by itself as
a small salad. The name means "rooster's beak,"
probably in reference to the motion of the thumb and
index finger when picking it up to eat it.
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Pico de Gallo II
1 lb (500 g) jicama*, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 navel oranges, peeled, sectioned, and coarsely
chopped
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
* Jicama is a root vegetable available in Hispanic
specialty shops and finer supermarkets. Water
chestnuts or tart green apples may be substituted.
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and
refrigerate before serving. Serve with tortilla
chips. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.
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Mexican-style salsas are all the rage these days,
and they are showing up in every kind of restaurant.
This one can be served as a dip with tortilla chips,
or as a relish to accompany meat-it is
particularly good with fish. You may substitute
papaya, mango, or even peaches for the pineapple.
Pineapple and Black Bean Salsa (Salsa de Piña y
Frijoles Negros)
1 cup (250 ml) fresh or canned pineapple, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) canned black beans, rinsed and
drained
1/2 cup (60 ml) fresh lime or lemon juice
1/2 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh cilantro
1 small red onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 fresh jalapeño or other hot pepper, seeded and
finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a serving bowl and toss
to thoroughly combine. Serve immediately, or
refrigerate for 2 hours and serve chilled. Makes
about 4 cups (1 L).
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This sauce can be used on just
about anything that would benefit from a touch of
spiciness.
Tomato Sauce
(Salsa de Tomate)
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/2 tsp (2 ml) sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Finely chopped jalapeño or serrano chiles, to taste
Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onion and
garlic until soft but not brown. Add the remaining
ingredients and cook over low to moderate heat for
20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve warm or
cold. Makes about 2 cups.
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Starters (Antojitos)
I have published many recipes for seviche (also
spelled ceviche) over the years because the dish is
popular throughout Latin America and the Caribbean.
The combination of ingredients and flavors in this
version leaves no doubt of its Mexican roots.
Avocado Stuffed with Shrimp Seviche (Aguacate
Relleno con Seviche de Camarones)
1/2 lb (225 g) small shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
1 tomato, seeded and chopped
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
4 pimiento-stuffed green olives, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped, or to
taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 ripe avocado, halved and pitted
Lettuce leaves for garnish
Combine the shrimp, lemon juice, and lime juice in a
non-reactive bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours, or
until the shrimp are firm and opaque. Add the
tomato, onion, olives, jalapeño, olive oil, cilantro,
salt, and pepper and stir to combine. Spoon into the
avocado halves and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.
Serves 2.
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A taco is a small corn tortilla stuffed with just
about anything on hand. In Mexico they are never
fried crisp in the style popularized by American
fast food outlets and Mexican-style restaurants, so
just heat your tortillas in a dry skillet, over hot
coals, or even in the microwave for an authentic
Mexican treat.
Cheese Tacos (Tacos de Queso)
2 poblano chiles, seeded and chopped or 1 can (4.5
oz, 127 g) green chile peppers, drained and chopped
2-3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 small onion, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) corn oil
1/4 lb (125 g) Mexican queso fresco, Monterey Jack
or similar cheese, shredded
8-12 small (4 inch, 10 cm) corn tortillas, warmed
until soft
Sour cream for garnish (optional)
Combine the chiles, tomatoes, onion, salt, and
pepper in an electric blender or food process and
process until smooth. Heat the oil in a small
skillet over moderate heat and cook the chile
mixture for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Place
some cheese and sauce on each tortilla and fold in
half, using a toothpick to secure the tacos if
necessary. Serve garnished with sour cream if
desired. Serves 4 to 6.
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Here is the appetizer I am most likely to order in a
good Tex-Mex restaurant, and I like them so much
that I frequently order them as a main course-never
twice at the same meal, though. Flauta
means "flute" in Spanish, so make sure these tightly
rolled tacos are long and narrow like their
namesake.
Chicken Flautas
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) cooked chicken meat, shredded
2 Tbs (30 ml) picante sauce or salsa
12 corn tortillas
Vegetable oil for frying
Sour cream for garnish (optional)
Picante sauce or salsa for garnish (optional)
Guacamole for garnish (optional)
Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and
saute the onion and garlic until tender but not
brown, about 5 minutes. Add the shredded chicken
and salsa and simmer until heated through.
Meanwhile, heat about 1/2 inch (1 cm) of vegetable
oil in a skillet over moderate heat and, using
tongs, fry each tortilla for about 3 to 5 seconds,
just enough to soften them. Drain on paper towels
and place about 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the chicken
mixture on each tortilla, rolling them tightly to
form thin, cigar-shaped rolls. Place seam side down
in a shallow baking dish and bake in a preheated
400F (200C) oven until crisp, about 20 minutes. Serves garnished with sour cream, salsa, and/or
guacamole of desired. Makes 12 flautas to serve 4
to 6 as an appetizer, 3 to 4 as a main dish.
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This traditional Mexican favorite is probably the
ancestor of the ubiquitous Tex-Mex nachos served in
every fern bar and sporting venue in the country.
After tasting this dish I'm sure you'll agree that
the modern version has little to offer in
comparison.
Chilaquiles
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
15-18 4-inch (10 cm) corn tortillas, cut into
1/2-inch (1 cm) strips
1 can (10 oz, 280 g) tomatillos (Mexican green
tomatoes)
1 small onion, chopped
2-3 serrano chilies
3-4 sprigs cilantro (fresh coriander)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) grated Monterey jack or other mild
white cheese
1/2 cup (125 ml) beef stock or water
Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat
and fry the tortilla strips a few at a time until
crisp but not browned, adding more oil if needed.
Drain on paper towels. Combine the tomatillos with
their liquid, onion, chilies, and cilantro in an
electric blender or food processor and process until
smooth. Cook the puree in the remaining oil in the
skillet for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper and remove from the heat. Place about a third
of the sauce in the bottom of a lightly greased
baking dish, top with half the tortilla strips and
half the cheese. Repeat. Add the beef stock and bake
in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 30 minutes.
Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer.
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Quesadillas are a Mexican classic that are becoming
more widely available in Mexican restaurants in the
US. They are traditionally fried or grilled, but my
version is easier and less attention-demanding.
Crab Quesadillas (Quesadillas de Cangrejo)
4 flour tortillas
1 Tbs soft butter
1 cup shredded queso fresco, Monterey jack, or mild
flavored, semi-soft cheese.
1-6 oz (170 g) can crab meat, drained and picked
over
Hot sauce (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Grease a large baking sheet with the butter or
margarine. Rub the tortillas on the greased surface
so as to lightly grease one side of each tortilla.
With the tortillas greased-side-down on the baking
sheet, place one quarter of the shredded cheese on
one half of each tortilla. Top this with the crab, a
dash or two of the optional hot sauce, and salt and
pepper to taste. Fold each tortilla over and bake in
a 350F (180C) oven for about 5 minutes, until the
bottom is golden brown. Flip the quesadillas over
and cook an additional 5 minutes, or until the other
side is golden brown and the cheese is melted. Cut
into wedges and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as
an appetizer.
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This is one of the few dishes you'll find in a
typical Tex-Mex-style restaurant in the U.S. that is
also found throughout Mexico. Use Mexican queso
asadero if you can find it. Otherwise, any good
melting cheese can be substituted.
Melted Cheese with Chorizo (Queso Fundido con
Chorizo)
4 oz (110 g) Mexican chorizo, casing removed
1/2 lb (225 g) Mexican queso asadero or other
melting cheese such as mozzarella or Monterey Jack,
cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) cubes
Tortilla chips or warm flour tortillas
Heat an 8- or 9-inch (20-23 cm) pie pan or gratin
dish in a 375F (190C) oven while you prepare the
chorizo. Saute the chorizo in a skillet over
moderate heat, breaking it up into small pieces,
until cooked through. Drain off and discard the
excess fat and set aside. Spread the cheese cubes in
the hot pie plate and bake for 10 minutes. Sprinkle
with the chorizo and heat for 4 to 5 more minutes.
Serve immediately with tortilla chips or flour
tortillas. Serves 4 to 6.
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Serve these spicy little nuggets with cocktails as
they do in Mexico.
Toasted Chickpeas (Garbanzos Compuestos)
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) chickpeas (garbanzos),
drained
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt to taste
Cayenne pepper or chili powder to taste
Heat the oil in a skillet over high heat and saute
the chickpeas and garlic until the chickpeas are
golden brown, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper
towels and sprinkle with salt and cayenne. Cool to
room temperature and store in an airtight container
until ready to serve. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).
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This classic Mexican dish is so simple and delicious
you'll want to keep the recipe handy for whenever
you need a quick and easy appetizer, cold side dish,
or salad.
Tomatoes Stuffed with Guacamole (Jitomates Rellenos
de Guacamole)
4-6 medium tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 avocados, peeled, pitted, and mashed
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 tsp (5 ml) fresh lime or lemon juice
1-2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped
(optional)
Lettuce leaves for garnish (optional)
Cut a slice off the top of the tomatoes and scoop
out the insides to leave a thick shell. Sprinkle
the inside with salt and allow to drain upside down
for 15 minutes. Mix together the avocado, onion,
cilantro, lime juice, optional jalapeño, salt, and
pepper and stuff the tomatoes with the mixture. Serve chilled or at room temperature on a bed of
lettuce leaves if desired. Serves 4 to 6.
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Soups (Sopas)
Avocado soups are found throughout much of Central
and South America. This version is from Mexico, and
is delicious either hot or cold.
Avocado Soup (Sopa de Aquacate)
2 large, ripe avocados, peeled
4 cups (1 L) canned or fresh chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish
Lime wedges for garnish
Press the flesh of the avocados through a fine sieve
and place in a large serving bowl. Heat the chicken
stock and the cream until it almost boils. Pour the
hot liquid over the strained avocados, stirring to
combine. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve hot or chill for at least 2 hours before
serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro and a lime
wedge. Serves 4 to 6.
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Here is a delicious and easy to cook soup. Its
Spanish heritage is evidenced by the use of almonds
and sherry, but it gets its Mexican flair from the
spices used.
Chicken and Almond Soup (Sopa de Pollo y Almendras)
2 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves
2 qt (2 L) chicken stock
1/2 cup (125 ml) blanched almonds
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 medium onion, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Pinch of nutmeg
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin seed
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper (or to taste)
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry sherry (optional)
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped parsley
Cook the chicken breasts by simmering them in the
chicken stock for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove them and
set them aside. Saute the almonds in the butter over
moderate heat until golden. Place the almonds,
onion, and one of the chicken breasts in an electric
blender or food processor, along with a little of
the stock, and blend until pureed. Add this mixture
to the remaining stock, along with the nutmeg,
cumin, and cayenne. Add the second chicken breast,
cut into small pieces, and heat over moderate heat,
stirring occasionally. Add the optional sherry just
prior to serving. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Garnish with the chopped parsley. Serves 6.
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Variations on this soup can be found throughout
Mexico, many of them unremarkable in flavor because
canned condensed soup in a red and white label is
ubiquitous even there.
Cream of Corn Soup (Crema de Elote)
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 cups (750 ml) kernels fresh or frozen sweet corn,
thawed
1 Tbs (15 ml) cornstarch (cornflour) mixed with
1/4 cup (60 ml) cold water
3 cups (750 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
2 fresh poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and
chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley or cilantro (coriander leaves) for
garnish
Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and
saute the onion and garlic until tender but now
brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to an
electric blender or food processor and add the corn
and cornstarch mixture. Puree until smooth, scraping
down the sides of the blender several times, and
transfer to a saucepan. Cook over moderate heat,
stirring frequently, until the soup comes to a boil.
Stir in the remaining ingredients except the parsley
and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.
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This dish is often served for breakfast in Mexico,
where it is believed to have restorative powers for
those who have overindulged the night before.
Menudo
2 lb (1 Kg) beef tripe
2 pig's feet
8 cups (2 L) water
6 ears of corn
6 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts,
chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh cilantro (coriander
leaves)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Garnishes: chopped fresh oregano, lemon and lime
wedges,
hot pepper flakes, chopped onion
Combine the tripe, pigs feet, and water in a large
pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the
heat and simmer covered for 3 hours. Allow the pot
to cool and remove the meats. Cut the tripe into
thin strips and remove the bones from the pig's
feet. Return the meats to the stock. Cut the corn
from the cobs and add it, along with the scallions,
coriander, salt, and pepper, to the stock. Bring to
a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Serve with garnishes
for diners to help themselves to. Serves 6 to 8.
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This traditional soup is really a one-dish meal.
Don't forget to serve some fresh, homemade tortillas
on the side.
Mexican Soup (Sopa a la Mexicana)
8 cups (2 L) chicken stock
4-6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
3 carrots, thinly sliced
2 zucchini (courgettes), thinly sliced
1 cup (250 ml) green peas
3 large tomatoes, seeded, and chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 avocado, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced for
garnish
Combine the chicken stock, chicken breasts, carrots,
zucchini, and peas in a pot and bring to a boil over
high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 10
minutes. Add the tomatoes and jalapeño and simmer
for 2 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and
pepper and garnish with the sliced avocado. Serves 4
to 6.
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Hispanic markets sell packages of dried noodles
labeled fideos especially for this dish, but the
term actually refers to any dried pasta. Your
favorite American or Italian brand will do the job
just fine in this recipe.
Noodle Soup (Sopa de Fideos)
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2 oz (55 g) spaghetti, vermicelli, or other thin
noodle, broken into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces
1 15-oz (225 g) can tomatoes with their liquid
1 onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
6 cups (1.5 L) beef or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry sherry (optional)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat and saute
the broken noodles until lightly browned. Meanwhile,
combine the tomatoes, onion, and garlic in an
electric blender or food processor and puree until
smooth. Pour the tomato mixture into the pot with
the noodles and cook for 5 minutes, stirring
frequently. Add the stock and simmer covered until
the noodles are tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust the
seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the
sherry if desired. Serve with grated Parmesan on the
side. Serves 4 to 6.
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It seems that virtually every culture has its own
boiled dumplings: the Chinese have won-tons, the
Italians have gnocchi, the Germans have spaetzle,
and the Mexicans have this delectable dish.
Tortilla-Ball Soup (Sopa de Bolitas de Tortilla)
12 4-inch corn tortillas
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1 small onion, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) grated Parmesan cheese
2 eggs
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock
2 Tbs (30 ml) tomato paste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)
Soak the tortillas in the milk for 15 minutes.
Combine the tortillas and milk with the onion and
garlic in an electric blender or food processor and
process until smooth. Combine with the cheese, eggs,
salt, and pepper and stir until thoroughly combined.
Roll into small balls. Meanwhile, bring the chicken
stock to a simmer over moderate heat. Stir in the
tomato paste and optional cayenne. Add the tortilla
balls and simmer for 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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This staple of Tex-Mex restaurants is so hearty and
filling that you may want to serve it as a main
dish. Traditionally, the tortilla strips are fried,
but my version is quicker, easier, and lowers the
fat content of the recipe.
Tortilla Soup
(Sopa de Tortillas)
2 chicken breast halves
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken stock
1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 green or red bell pepper (capsicum), seeded and
chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups (500 ml) fresh or frozen corn kernels
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) chopped tomatoes with their
liquid
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
1 tsp (5 ml) chili powder
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For garnish:
6-8 corn tortillas, cut into thin strips and
toasted in the oven until crisp
Chopped scallions (spring onions)
Shredded Monterey jack or Cheddar cheese (optional)
Sour cream (optional)
Combine the chicken breasts and chicken stock in a
pot and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Simmer covered for 20 minutes. Remove the chicken
breasts and allow to cool enough to handle. Remove
and discard the skin and bones, and shred the
chicken meat. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a skillet
over moderate heat. Saute the onion, peppers, and
garlic until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the
chicken meat, the onion mixture, and the remaining
ingredients to the pot and simmer 20 to 30 minutes. Garnish with toasted tortilla strips, scallions, and
cheese or sour cream if desired. Serves 4 to 6.
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Turkeys were the largest domesticated animal in
North America when Columbus arrived, and they have
been a staple in the diet of Americans for thousands
of years. Here is a typical turkey soup from south
of the border:
Turkey Soup (Sopa de Pavo)
2 cups (500 ml) turkey stock (see index)
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 can (4 oz, 110 g) diced green chilies, drained
2 cups (500 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 ml) chili powder
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin
2 cups (500 ml) cooked turkey, coarsely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) fresh, frozen, or canned corn kernels
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves) or parsley
for garnish
Combine the turkey stock, garlic, onion, carrot,
celery, and canned chilies in a large pot and bring
to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and
simmer covered for 15 minutes. In a mixing bowl,
whisk together the milk, flour, chili powder, and
cumin. Whisk the mixture into the soup and return
to the boil over high heat, stirring constantly
until the soup boils and thickens slightly, about 5
minutes. Add the turkey and corn and simmer until
heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper if necessary and serve
garnished with chopped cilantro or parsley. Serves
4 to 6.
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Sides (Verduras)
A Tex-Mex meal without beans of some sort would be
like a Chinese meal without rice-it just doesn't
happen very often. These beans are "drunk" (borracho
in Spanish) due to the beer, but you may substitute
chicken broth or water if you prefer your beans on
the sober side.
Borracho Beans (Frijoles Borrachos)
1/2 lb (225 g) sliced bacon
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1-2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) pinto beans, soaked overnight and
boiled until tender
2 12-ounce cans (355 ml each) beer
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Fry the bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towels,
crumble, and set aside. Reserve about 2 tablespoons
(30 ml) of the bacon fat and heat it in a large pot
over moderate heat. Saute the onion, garlic, and
jalapeños until tender but not brown, about 5
minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer
until heated through. Top with crumbled bacon and
serve hot. Serves 6 to 8.
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The chayote was a food staple for the ancient Aztecs
and Mayas, as it still is today in Mexico. Also
known as mirliton and christophene (my family calls
it susu from our South America days), it is a green,
pear-shaped fruit with a thin, furrowed skin.
Although it can be eaten raw, I prefer it cooked,
when it becomes the most succulent vegetable
imaginable.
Chayote Salad (Ensalada de Chayote)
3 to 4 chayotes, peeled and seeded, cut into
1-inch (2 cm) pieces
1/2 tsp (2 ml) Dijon-style mustard
2 Tbs (30 ml) lime or lemon juice
6 Tbs (90 ml) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tomatoes, cut into eighths
1 onion, finely chopped
12 to 18 ripe olives
Lettuce leaves for garnish
Boil the chayote in enough salted water to cover for
20 minutes, until tender. Drain and chill. In a
large bowl combine the mustard, lime juice, oil,
salt, and pepper and whisk until emulsified. Add the
chilled chayote, tomatoes, onion, and olives and
toss to thoroughly coat the vegetables. Serve on a
bed of lettuce. Serves 4 to 6.
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Here is a classic Mexican treatment for fresh (as
opposed to dried) beans of any sort. Use green beans
(haricots), broad beans, or even sugar snaps if you
like. I am partial to lima beans, and since I've
never seen them fresh in any market I've ever been
in, my recipe calls for the frozen product.
Lima Beans (Habas Verdes)
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter or olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-1 1/2 lbs (450-675 g) frozen lima beans, cooked
according to package directions
2-3 hard-cooked eggs, sliced for garnish
Chopped parsley for garnish
Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and
saute the onion and garlic until tender but not
brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, jalapeño,
salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally,
for 15 minutes. Add the cooked lima beans and stir
to combine. Serve garnished with sliced egg and
chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.
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The stuff piled next to the refried beans on nearly
every plate served by Mexican restaurants in the USA
bears little resemblance to anything you'll find in
Mexico. Here's the genuine article.
Mexican Rice (Arroz a la Mexicana)
2 cups (500 ml) long-grain rice
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 cups (1 L) chicken or beef stock
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and
chopped, or 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) canned tomatoes
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) frozen or fresh green peas, cooked
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Optional garnishes:
Chile "flowers" (fresh hot chiles sliced from the
tip to the stem into 4 or 5 sections and immersed in
cold water until they curl back to form "flowers")
Fresh coriander or parsley sprigs
1 large avocado, peeled and sliced
Puree the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and 1/2 cup of
the stock in an electric blender or food processor.
Heat the oil in a saucepan and saute the rice until
it turns golden. Add the tomato puree, remaining
stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a
boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cover until
almost all of the liquid has been absorbed (about 15
minutes). Mix in the peas and continue cooking until
all the liquid has been absorbed. Garnish with the
optional garnishes. Serves 6.
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If you like spicy food like I do, you'll love this
dish. You can tone it down by using only half a
chipotle, but the smoky flavor and fiery heat do
wonders to the otherwise tame mushrooms.
Mushrooms with Chipotles (Hongos con Chipotle)
1 lb (450 g) mushrooms, rinsed
1 medium onion, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 canned chipotle chile*, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) tomato paste
3/4 cup (180 ml) chicken stock
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Juice of 1/2 lemon
* Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapeños
and are available canned in
most supermarkets and Hispanic specialty shops.
Remove the stems from the mushrooms and chop the
stems, leaving the mushroom caps whole. Combine the
mushroom stems, onion, garlic, chipotle, tomato
paste, and chicken stock in an electric blender or
food processor and process until smooth. Heat half
the olive oil in a skillet over moderate heat and
add the puree. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5
minutes. Meanwhile, heat the remaining olive oil in
a separate skillet over high heat and saute the
mushroom caps, stirring frequently, until lightly
browned, about 5 minutes. Add the chipotle puree to
the mushrooms, adjust the seasoning with salt and
pepper, and stir in the lemon juice. Serve
immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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Traditional Mexican cooking includes an entire
category of rice and pasta dishes known as sopas
secas or "dry soups." No one is sure how this name
came into being, but it might have been because the
Aztecs didn't understand the Spanish habit of
putting rice and noodle into soups ("wet soups") as
well as serving them as side dishes ("dry soups").
Traditionally the sopa seca was served as a separate
course following the (wet) soup at the main meal,
but nowadays they are also served as side dishes and
occasionally as the main course.
Noodle "Dry Soup" (Sopa Seca de Fideos)
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1/2 lb (225 g) thin spaghetti, fettuccine, or other
thin noodle broken into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces
1 onion, finely chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3-4 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and mashed
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) beef, chicken, or vegetable
stock
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot sauce or cayenne pepper to taste (optional)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat
and saute the noodles, stirring frequently, until
golden brown. Transfer the noodles to a baking dish
and saute the onion and garlic in the remaining oil
until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the
remaining ingredients (except the Parmesan) and pour
the mixture over the noodles, stirring to combine.
Simmer uncovered over low heat or bake uncovered in
a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the noodles are
tender and the liquid has been absorbed, about 30
minutes. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4
to 6.
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When ordering a meal in Mexico, it's not unusual for
the server to ask if you want your beans fried (refritos)
or from the pot (de la olla).
Pot Beans (Frijoles de la Olla)
2 cups (500 ml) dried beans such as pinto or black
beans
6 cups (1.5 L) water
2 Tbs (30 ml) lard, bacon drippings, or vegetable
oil
1 small onion, chopped
Salt to taste
Soak the beans overnight, or bring them to a boil in
salted water and then let them sit in the hot liquid
for 1 hour. Drain the beans and combine all the
ingredients in a pot. Bring to a boil over high
heat, reduce the heat and simmer covered until the
beans are tender, 1 to 2 hours, adding more water if
necessary to keep them completely submerged. Serves
4 to 6.
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Rice was introduced to the Americas by the Spanish,
but the corn and chiles in this dish are traditional
Central American ingredients.
Puebla-Style Rice (Arroz a la Poblana)
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 cup (250 ml) long-grain rice
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cups (500 ml) chicken or vegetable stock or water
Salt to taste
3 fresh poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and
cut into strips
1 cup (250 ml) fresh or frozen kernels sweet corn
3/4 cup (180 ml) crumbled Mexican queso fresco or
similar cheese such as feta or farmer's cheese
Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and saute
the rice and onion, stirring frequently, until the
onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining
ingredients and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat
to low and simmer covered for 15 minutes. Remove
from the heat and let sit covered for 10 minutes.
Fluff with a fork immediately before serving. Serves
4 to 6.
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Refried beans have been on every dish I have ever
ordered in a Mexican restaurant in the USA, bar
none. I know this is true because I always order
them if they aren't included with the entree. Once
you have made them at home, you will agree that the
commercial variety doesn't compare.
Refried Beans (Frijoles Refritos)
2 Tbs (30 ml) bacon drippings or vegetable oil
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin
3 cups (750 ml) cooked and drained pinto beans
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Grated Monterey jack or Cheddar cheese
Heat the fat in a skillet over moderate heat and
saute the garlic and cumin for 2 to 3 minutes. Add
the beans and mash with a potato masher or fork
until thoroughly mashed. Season with salt and
pepper and simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve topped with grated cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
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This is a popular dish in Mexico, but I think it's
even more ubiquitous north of the border. Every
Mexican restaurant and home cook has a different
version, and experimentation is encouraged. Mexican
food purists (including me) will pale at the thought
of using any chile other than the poblano, but if
these aren't available in your area you have my
permission to use green bell peppers instead.
Stuffed Chiles I (Chiles Rellenos)
4-6 poblano chiles
Flour for dredging
2 eggs, beaten
Vegetable oil for frying
For the filling:
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1 lb (450 g) ground beef
1 onion, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) raisins
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped pimiento-stuffed olives
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For the sauce:
3 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
Cook the chiles over an open flame or under a
broiler until the skin is blistered and black all
over. Place in a paper bag and allow to cool for at
least 15 minutes. Scrape off and discard the
blackened parts. Cut a slit in the chiles from top
to bottom and remove the seeds and core. Set the
chiles aside.
To prepare the filling, heat the oil in a skillet
over moderate heat and cook the beef, onion, and
garlic until the meat is browned, about 10 minutes.
Add the remaining ingredients and cook uncovered for
10 minutes.
To prepare the sauce, combine the tomatoes, onion,
garlic, stock, salt, and pepper in an electric
blender and puree until smooth. Heat the oil in a
skillet over high heat and cook the tomato mixture,
stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.
Fill the chiles with the meat filling. Dredge them
in flour, dip in the eggs, and fry in a skillet with
about 1/2 inch (1 cm) oil over high heat until
lightly browned on all sides. Spoon the sauce over
the chiles and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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Chiles rellenos are most often fried, but I prefer
this method because it's easier and it cuts down on
the fat content.
Stuffed Chiles II (Chiles Rellenos)
4-6 poblano chiles or other chiles suitable for
stuffing
1 recipe picadillo (see index)
About 1 cup (250 ml) shredded Mexican Chihuahua or
Monterey Jack cheese
Char the poblanos over a burner or under a broiler
until blackened and blistered on all sides. Allow
the chiles to cool enough to handle and peel them.
Cut a slit along the length of the chiles and
carefully remove the seeds and veins. Stuff with the
picadillo and place on a lightly greased baking
sheet. Top with the shredded cheese and bake in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven until heated through, 20
to 30 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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This colorful vegetable stew can be served as a side
dish or as a meatless entree. To make it truly
vegetarian simply substitute the broth with
vegetable broth or water.
Vegetable Stew (Guiso de Verduras)
2 onions, peeled and sliced
1 sweet red pepper, cut into strips
1 sweet green pepper, cut into strips
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups beef or chicken broth
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes (or to taste)
2 small red potatoes, diced
1 small sweet potato, diced
2 cups fresh green beans, sliced into 1 in (2.5 cm)
pieces
1 zucchini (courgettes), sliced
1 yellow squash, sliced
1 can black beans, drained and rinsed
2 ears corn cut into 1 in (2.5 cm) pieces, or 1 cup
corn kernels
2 Tbs lime juice
1/2 cup cilantro or flat leaf parsley
Combine the onion, red and green peppers, garlic and
broth and bring to a boil in a large pot. Cover and
simmer for 5 minutes. Add the spices, red potatoes
and sweet potato, cover and simmer 10 minutes more,
adding more broth or water if needed. Add the green
beans, cook 5 minutes more. Add the zucchini, yellow
squash, black beans, corn and lime juice. Reduce the
heat and simmer 5 minutes, or until all the
vegetables are tender. Garnish with cilantro or
parsley. Serves 10 to 12 as a side dish, 4 to 6 as
an entree.
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Green leafy salads are a rarity in Mexico where cold
vegetable dishes called ensaladas are often served
as a vegetable side dish or main dish for a light
meal.
Zucchini Salad (Ensalada de Calabacitas)
4-6 medium zucchinis (courgettes), thickly sliced
4-6 scallions (spring onions), green and white
parts, thinly sliced
2 canned poblano chiles, cut into thin strips
2-3 avocados, peeled and coarsely chopped
2/3 cup (160 ml) olive oil
1/3 cup (80 ml) red wine vinegar
1 tsp (5 ml) Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lettuce leaves for garnish
Cook the zucchini in boiling salted water until
cooked but still firm and crisp, about 5 to 6
minutes. Drain, chop coarsely, and cool to room
temperature. Combine the zucchini, scallions,
chiles, and avocados in a large bowl. Whisk
together the oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper
and pour over the vegetables. Toss gently to
combine and serve on lettuce leaves. Serves 4 to 6.
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Main Dishes (Platos Principales)
This is one of those dishes that people assume to be
of Mexican origin, but I'll wager that the only
place fajitas are served south of the border is in
American-style restaurants.
Beef
Fajitas
For the marinade:
1/2 cup (125 ml) lime juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 lbs (900 g) beef skirt or flank steak
8-12 flour tortillas
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2-3 red and/or green bell peppers (capsicum),
seeded and cut into thin strips
2-3 medium onions, cut into thin rings
Garnishes:
Grated Cheddar cheese
Sour cream
Pico de gallo (from index)
Guacamole
Whisk together the marinade ingredients in a large
bowl. Cut the meat into thin strips and toss with
the marinade. Marinate refrigerated for 1 to 2
hours, or 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and heat in a
350F (180C) oven for 15 minutes. Heat the oil in a
large skillet over high heat and saute the peppers
and onions for 5 minutes. Drain the meat and
discard the marinade. Add to the skillet and saute
until medium-rare. Transfer the meat mixture to a
serving platter and serve with tortillas and
garnishes. To eat, place some of the meat mixture
on a tortilla, top with the garnishes and roll up. Serves 4 to 6.
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The French would call this dish pot-au-feu, and in
Mexico it is brightened up with the addition of
fruits.
Beef Stew (Puchero)
1 lb (450 g) beef stew meat, cut in 2-inch (5 cm)
cubes
1 lb (450 g) lamb stew meat, cut in 2-inch (5 cm)
cubes
1/2 lb (225 g) ham, diced
1 chicken, cut into serving pieces
1 large onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) corn kernels
1 cup (250 ml) canned garbanzo beans, drained
3-4 medium carrots, sliced
3-4 turnips, peeled and sliced
3-4 zucchini or yellow squash, sliced
1 small cabbage, cut into wedges
1/2 lb (225 g) sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced
1/2 lb (225 g) white potatoes, peeled and sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) vegetable oil
2-3 firm bananas, peeled
3-4 peaches, peeled and quartered
3-4 pears, peeled and quartered
Chopped coriander (cilantro leaves) and lime wedges
for garnish
Combine all the meats in a large pot with enough
water to cover. Add the onion and garlic and bring
to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and
simmer covered for 90 minutes. Add the corn,
garbanzos, carrots, turnips, zucchini, cabbage,
sweet potatoes, white potatoes, salt, and pepper. Simmer covered until the vegetables are tender, 20
to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in
a skillet over moderate heat and saute the bananas
until golden brown. Combine the peach and pear
quarters in a saucepan with a little water and bring
to a boil over moderate heat. Simmer covered for 10
minutes. Arrange the meats, vegetables, and fruits
on a large platter. Strain the soup and serve
garnished with chopped cilantro and lime wedges as a
first course, followed by the meats, vegetables, and
fruits. Serves 6 to 8.
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Aside from the fact that the inhabitants of Mexico
have been eating just about everything wrapped in
tortillas for thousands of years, there is nothing
truly Mexican about fajitas-they're a Tex-Mex
invention. The name derives from a cut of beef
("fajitas" means "little belts" in reference to the
cut from the belly they are usually made with), thus
making chicken fajitas one delicious oxymoron.
Chicken Fajitas
For the marinade:
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) red wine vinegar
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon or lime juice
1 tsp (5 ml) Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cayenne pepper (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-1 1/2 lbs (450-675 g) boneless, skinless chicken
breasts cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) strips
12 flour tortillas
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 onion cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) strips
1 green bell pepper (capsicum) cut into 1/4-inch (5
mm) strips
1 red bell pepper (capsicum) cut into 1/4-inch (5
mm) strips
Optional toppings:
Grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese
Sour cream
Pico de gallo or salsa
Chopped olives
Guacamole
Fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)
Combine the marinade ingredients and pour over the
chicken strips. Marinate refrigerated for 2 to 3
hours. Drain the chicken and discard the marinade. Wrap the tortillas in foil and heat in a 350F (180C)
oven until heated through, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over high
heat and saute the chicken, onion, and bell peppers
until the chicken is cooked and the vegetables are
tender, about 5 minutes. Place 2 or 3 strips of
chicken along with some of the onions, peppers, and
optional ingredients of your choice on each tortilla
and roll, or serve the tortillas, cooked
ingredients, and toppings for diners to assemble
themselves. Serves 4 to 6.
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The tomatillos and pumpkin seeds in this recipe are
increasingly easy to find in the United States these
days. If your local supermarket doesn't carry them,
I'm sure the nearest Hispanic market will have them.
Chicken in Green Sauce (Pollo en Salsa Verde)
1/2 cup (125 ml) shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 cup (250 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 cup (250 ml) chopped scallions (spring onions)
1 cup (250 ml) chopped canned or fresh tomatillos
1 jalapeño or other hot green chile, seeded and
chopped, or to taste
About 1/2 cup (125 ml) chicken stock or water
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) chicken parts
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet over
moderate heat until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes.
Combine in a blender with the cilantro, scallions,
tomatillos, jalapeño, and enough chicken stock to
make a smooth, thin paste. Heat the vegetable oil in
a large heavy skillet, preferably non-stick, over
moderate heat. Season the chicken with salt and
pepper and brown on all sides in the hot oil. Add
the green sauce and enough additional chicken stock
to make a thin, soupy sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce
the heat, and simmer uncovered until the chicken is
tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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Pipián is difficult to
translate. My Spanish-English dictionary says simply
"fricassee," and the dictionary of the Spanish Royal
Academy defines it as "a New World stew made with
meat, chicken, turkey, or other fowl with salt pork
and almonds." The Spanish Academy not withstanding,
some versions are based around seafood, and
vegetarian versions can also be found.
Chicken Stew with Almonds (Pollo en Pipián de
Almendra)
3 lbs (1.35 Kg) chicken pieces
3 cups (750 ml) chicken stock
2-3 scallions (spring onions), green and white
parts, coarsely chopped
2-3 sprigs cilantro (coriander)
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
6 ancho* chiles, seeded, torn into pieces, and
soaked in warm water for 1 hour
1/2 cup (125 ml) blanched almonds, toasted and
pulverized in a blender or food processor
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried oregano
A pinch ground cloves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
* Available in finer supermarkets and Hispanic
specialty shops
Combine the chicken, stock, scallions, cilantro, and
carrot in a large pot and bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 45
minutes. Remove the chicken pieces, strain and
reserve the stock, and return the chicken pieces to
the pot. Puree the soaked ancho chiles along with a
little of the soaking liquid in an electric blender
or food processor. Heat the oil in a skillet over
moderate heat and saute the chile mixture and
pulverized almonds for 5 minutes, stirring
frequently. Add about 2 cups (500 ml) of the
reserved chicken stock to make a medium-thick sauce.
Stir in the seasonings and pour the sauce over the
chicken. Cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes, or
until the chicken is heated through. Serves 4 to 6.
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This dish originated in the Mexican city of Puebla,
where it is traditionally served on St. Augustine's
Day, August 28. It is also a popular dish on Mexican
Independence Day because it has the red, green, and
white of the Mexican flag.
Chiles in Walnut Sauce (Chiles en Nogada)
6 poblano chiles or green bell peppers
1 recipe picadillo (see index)
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped walnuts
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped blanched almonds
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, softened
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cinnamon (optional)
The seeds of 1 pomegranate
Hold the chiles on a fork over a flame or electric
burner until the skin blisters. Place them in a
paper bag and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Peel the
skin off under running water. Cut a slit the length
of the peppers and remove the seeds and ribs. Stuff
the peppers with the picadillo and fasten them
closed with toothpicks if necessary. Arrange the
stuffed peppers on a platter.
Combine the nuts, cream cheese, and enough milk to
make a sauce about the thickness of mayonnaise. Stir
in the optional cinnamon. Pour the sauce over the
chiles and sprinkle the pomegranate seed over the
top. Serves 6.
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The hardest part of making this dish might be
getting your hands on the guajillo chiles. They are
available these days in many American supermarkets,
but I know this is small comfort for my readers in
other countries. If they aren't available in your
area, I suggest an internet search for a mail-order
source. Is there some substitute you can use? Nope.
Chorizo Enchiladas with Guajillo Sauce
For the sauce:
10 to 12 guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds, toasted and ground
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds, toasted and ground
6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock
4 Roma tomatoes, halved and grilled or broiled until
charred
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For the enchiladas:
2 lbs (900 g) Mexican chorizo without casing (see
below)
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2 cups (500 ml) cooked diced potato
16 corn tortillas, heated in hot oil
1 cup (250 ml) shredded asadero or Monterey Jack
cheese
To make the sauce, toast the guajillo chiles in a
dry skillet over high heat just until soft and
fragrant, about 10 seconds on each side. Heat the
oil in a saucepan over high heat and saute the onion
until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add
guajillo chiles and the remaining sauce ingredients
and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for
20 minutes. Puree the sauce in an electric blender
or food processor and strain through a fine sieve if
desired. Set aside.
To make the enchiladas, saute the chorizo and onion
in a skillet over high heat, breaking up the meat,
until the meat is thoroughly cooked, about 10
minutes. Stir in the potatoes and remove from the
heat. Place 3 to 4 tablespoons (45-60 ml) of the
filling on each tortilla and roll them tightly.
Spread about 1 cup (250 ml) of the guajillo sauce in
a large baking dish and place the enchiladas
seam-side down in the dish. Cover with about 2 cups
(500 ml) of the sauce (freeze the remainder) and
sprinkle with the shredded cheese. Bake in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven for 10 to 15 minutes.
Serves 6 to 8.
Mexican-Style Chorizo from
Scratch
2 lbs (900 g) ground pork
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican
canela
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
2 Tbs (30 ml) pureed chipotle en adobo (optional)
Salt to taste
Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl, stirring
to combine. Use immediately or freeze for future
use. Makes about 2 lbs (900 g).
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Most French chefs go apoplectic at the thought of
browning garlic for fear that it will ruin the dish,
but in Mexico they know that a little browning gives
garlic a unique, subtle flavor.
Fish in Garlic Sauce (Pescado al Mojo de Ajo)
4-6 fillets of firm white fish such as bass,
catfish, or perch
Freshly squeezed lime juice
Salt
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
10-12 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
About 1/2 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour seasoned
with salt
and freshly ground pepper
The juice of 1 lime
Chopped parsley for garnish
Drizzle the fish with lime juice, sprinkle with
salt, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Heat the butter
and oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute
the garlic until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.
Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and set
aside. Dredge the fish fillets in the flour mixture,
shake off the excess, and saute in the butter and
oil mixture until golden brown on both sides and
cooked through. Transfer the fish to a serving
platter. Add the reserved garlic, lime juice, and
parsley to the pan and stir to loosen the brown bits
in the bottom of the pan. Spoon the sauce over the
fish and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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This is an old-fashioned recipe from Mexico that
deserves a place in your standard repertoire because
of its ease of preparation and magnificent flavor.
Fish in Orange Juice (Pescado Naranjado)
4-6 individual steaks (about 6 oz, 170 g each) firm
white fish such as cod, halibut, or turbot
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
All-purpose flour for dredging
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1-2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped
(optional)
About 1 cup (250 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
Season the fish steaks with salt and pepper and dust
lightly with flour. Mix together the parsley,
garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and optional
jalapeño pepper and spread the mixture on both sides
of the fish steaks. Arrange the fish in a single
layer in a lightly greased baking dish just big
enough to hold the. Pour enough orange juice over
the fish barely cover it and bake covered in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is opaque,
firm to the touch, and flakes easily with a fork,
about 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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If you're one of those poor souls who can't tolerate
the flavor of cilantro, please use parsley in its
place in this quick and easy dish.
Fish with Cilantro (Pescado con Cilantro)
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) firm white fish fillets such as
red snapper, striped bass, or flounder
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
1-3 jalapeño or similar hot chiles, seeded and
finely chopped
Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and
saute the onion until tender but not brown, about 5
minutes. Season the fish with salt and pepper and
sprinkle with the lemon juice. Place in a greased
baking dish big enough to hold the fish in a single
layer. Top the fish with the sauteed onion,
cilantro, and jalapeños. Bake in a preheated 350F
(180C) oven until the fish is firm and opaque, 15 to
20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
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This is one of those dishes for which there are as
many recipes as cooks, so consider yourself
encouraged to experiment and invent your own
version.
Green Chicken (Pollo Verde)
1 bunch cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
6-8 tomatillos (Mexican green tomatoes), chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry vermouth or white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) chicken parts
Combine all ingredients except the chicken in an
electric blender and process to form a thick puree,
adding a little more vermouth if necessary. Place
the chicken pieces in a flame-proof dish or
casserole and pour the puree on top. Cook covered
over very low heat or in a preheated 325F (165C)
oven until the chicken is done, about 1 hour. Serves
4 to 6.
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This classic Mexican dish is often served on a bed
of rice, but it is also often used as a filling for
tacos, enchiladas, and chiles rellenos.
Picadillo
1 lb (450 g) ground beef
1/2 lb (125 g) Mexican chorizo without casing
1 onion, chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) raisins
1/2 cup (125 ml) pitted black or green olives,
chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) vinegar
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin
1 bay (laurel) leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Optional garnishes:
Cooked white rice
Shredded Monterey Jack cheese
Guacamole
Chopped tomatoes or tomato salsa
Brown the ground beef and chorizo in a skillet over
moderate heat, breaking them up with a spoon as they
cook. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 5 minutes. Drain off any excess
fat if necessary and add the remaining ingredients.
Simmer covered for 30 minutes. Use as a filling for
enchiladas, tacos, or chiles rellenos, or serve with
any or all of the optional garnishes. Serves 4 to 6.
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Legend has it that this dish was invented in the
Mexican town of Chilapa when a visiting dignitary
was about to arrive. The women realized that they
didn't have time to grind the corn and make
tortillas, so they just tossed the corn into the
pork stew. True or not, this dish is now found all
over Mexico as well as the Southwestern United
States.
Pork and Hominy Stew (Pozole Rojo)
8 cloves garlic, peeled
6 cups (1.5 L) water
2 cups (500 ml) canned or fresh chicken stock
2 lbs (1 kg) country-style pork ribs
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
3 dried New Mexico or ancho chiles
1 cup (250 ml) boiling water
1/2 small white onion, peeled
1 Tbs (15 ml) salt
1-30 oz (840 g) can white hominy, rinsed
and drained
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 corn tortillas
Vegetable oil for frying
Garnishes:
Fried tortilla strips (see recipe)
Diced avocado
Thinly sliced romaine lettuce
Chopped white onion
Diced radishes
Lime wedges
Thinly slice 6 of the garlic cloves and add them to
a large soup pot with the water, chicken broth,
pork, and oregano. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat,
and simmer uncovered for 1 1/2 hours, skimming the
surface to remove scum. Discard the stem from the
chiles and combine them with the boiling water in a
small bowl. Soak for 30 minutes, turning
occasionally. Combine the onion, soaked chiles
(along with the liquid), the remaining 2 cloves of
garlic, and the salt in an electric blender or food
processor and process until smooth. Remove the pork
from the broth mixture, reserving the broth. Shred
the pork and discard the bones. Return the pork to
the broth mixture, and add the hominy and chile
sauce. Simmer an additional 30 minutes. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Cut the tortillas in
half, and then into thin strips. Heat the oil in a
heavy skillet over high heat and fry them in 3 or 4
batches until crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on paper
towels and transfer to a serving bowl. Serve the
pozole with the garnishes in individual bowls, for
diners to add at the table. Serves 4 to 6.
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This classic Mexican dish is a world-class fish
recipe. Many travelers to Mexico are surprised at
the number of seafood items on restaurant menus. The
abundance of fish in the gulf of Mexico and the Sea
of Cortez account in part for this, as do the
thousands of miles of coastline on two oceans. But
the real clue to the popularity of seafood in Mexico
is the love of fine food that the Mexican people
have demonstrated in the creation and evolution of
their unique cuisine.
Red Snapper a la Veracruzana (Huachinango a la
Veracruzana)
6 large red snapper fillets or other firm,
white-fleshed fish fillets
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour seasoned with salt
and pepper
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups (500 ml) tomato puree
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cinnamon
A pinch of ground cloves
2-4 fresh or canned jalapeños or other locally
available hot chiles, seeded and cut into strips
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tsp (2 ml) sugar
12 small new potatoes, cooked and peeled
1/2 cup (125 ml) pimiento-stuffed green olives, cut
in half
Dust the fish fillets lightly with the seasoned
flour. Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a large skillet
over medium heat and saute the fillets until golden
but not completely cooked. Set aside. Add the
remaining 1/4 cup of the oil, the onion and the
garlic to the skillet, and fry until the onion is
transparent but not brown. Add the tomato puree,
cinnamon, and cloves and cook over moderate to low
heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the
chiles, lemon juice, sugar, and salt and pepper to
taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the
potatoes and fish fillets and cook for an additional
5 minutes, or until the fish is firm and flakes
easily. To serve, arrange the fish on a hot serving
platter and cover with the sauce, surrounded by the
potatoes and garnished with the olives. Serves 6.
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Isn't it often true that the simpler a dish is, the
better it is? I offer this dish as evidence.
Sinaloa-Style Grilled Chicken (Pollo a la Brasas)
1-2 whole chickens
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) orange juice
1 small onion, chopped
8-12 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried oregano
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried marjoram
4 bay (laurel) leaves, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Using a large knife or kitchen shears, cut along
both sides of the backbone of the chicken and remove
it. Lay the chicken skin-side up and press the
breastbone to flatten the chicken. Alternately, the
chicken can simply be cut into serving pieces.
Combine the remaining ingredients in an electric
blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
Combine the chicken and the marinade in a
non-reactive bowl or large plastic bag and marinate
refrigerated at least 4 hours or overnight. Cook the
chicken over hot coals or under a preheated broiler,
turning every 10 minutes and basting with the
marinade, until charred and the juices in the thigh
run clear when pricked with a fork, 30 to 45
minutes. Serves 4 to 8.
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This Tex-Mex version of a chef's salad is really a
meal all by itself.
Taco Salad
1 lb (450 g) ground beef
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) all-purpose flour
2 Tbs (30 ml) chili powder
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) water
2-3 cups (500-750 ml) tortilla chips
1/2 head iceberg lettuce, shredded
1 small onion, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) grated cheddar cheese
1 medium tomato, chopped
1 avocado, peeled, seeded, and diced
1/2 cup (125 ml) sliced black olives
1/4 cup (60 ml) pickled jalapeño peppers, sliced
1 cup (250 ml) ranch salad dressing
Saute the beef and garlic in a skillet over moderate
heat until the meat is browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour, chili powder, cumin, salt, and
pepper. Add the water and simmer uncovered over low
heat until the mixture has thickened, stirring
occasionally. Meanwhile, arrange the tortilla chips
on a large serving platter or individual plates and
place the lettuce on top. Add the beef mixture
followed by the remaining ingredients in the order
listed. Serves 4 to 6.
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Desserts (Postres)
If I don't already hold the record for the number
and variety of custard-like recipes published, this
one will surely put me over the top. It uses an
unusual cooking method to produce a light, fluffy
version of the ubiquitous flan.
Almond Custard (Flan de Almendra)
2 cups (500 ml) milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) blanched almonds, ground in a
blender or food processor
4 egg whites, stiffly beaten
1 tsp (5 ml) butter
Toasted slivered almonds for garnish
Combine the milk, sugar, and almonds in a pot and
bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat
and simmer covered for 15 minutes. Cool to room
temperature. Fold the egg whites into the milk
mixture. Grease the top of a double boiler with the
butter and add the mixture. Cook covered over a pot
of simmering water until the mixture has set, about
30 minutes. Chill and unmold onto a serving platter.
Garnish with slivered almonds. Serves 4 to 6.
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Here's a traditional Mexican dessert, similar to
many other bread puddings found around the world,
but the combination of spices and the use of cheese
make this one unique.
Bread Pudding
(Capirotada)
2 cups (500 ml) brown sugar, firmly packed
4 cups (1 L) water
1 cinnamon stick, about 4 inches (10 cm)
1 clove
6 cups (1.5 L) French bread, cut into 1/2-inch (1
cm) cubes and toasted in the oven until dry
3 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
1 cup (250 ml) raisins
1 cup (250 ml) chopped blanched almonds
1/2 lb (225 g) Monterey jack, Muenster, or other
mild cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Combine the brown sugar, water, cinnamon stick, and
clove in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, place a layer of the bread cubes in the
bottom of a greased oven-proof baking dish. Add a
layer of apples, raisins, almonds, and cheese.
Repeat until all the ingredients are used. Remove
the cinnamon and clove from the syrup and pour over
the bread mixture. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C)
oven for 30 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.
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This pie, similar to our cheesecake, is popular
throughout Mexico and is a staple among the nation's
"cafeterias," or coffee shops.
Cheese Pie (Pay de Queso)
For the crust:
5 slices white bread with crust (about 4 oz, 110 g)
2 Tbs (30 ml) sugar
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
For the filling:
1 lb (450 g) cream cheese at room temperature
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt, plus a pinch for the egg whites
1 Tbs (15 ml) all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cinnamon
3 egg yolks
2 egg whites
To make the crust, pulverize the bread in an
electric blender or food processor-there should be
about 1 2/3 cups (415 ml). Combine with the sugar in
a bowl and drizzle with the melted butter, mixing
well. Pat into a 9-inch (23 cm) pie pan and
refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Combine the cream cheese with 1/2 cup (125 ml) of
the sugar, 1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt, and the flour,
vanilla extract, and cinnamon in a food processor or
bowl of an electric mixer and process or beat until
smooth. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites with
a pinch of salt until stiff peaks form. Gradually
beat in the remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar until
the whites are stiff and shiny. Fold 1/3 of the egg
whites into the cheese mixture, then gently fold in
the remainder. Spoon the mixture into the crust and
bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven for 5 minutes.
Lower the heat to 325F (165C) and bake 25 minutes
more. Turn off the oven and let the pie cool in the
oven for 15 minutes with the oven door closed.
Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature
before serving. Serves 6 to 8.
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Of all the food contributions of the New World, I
believe chocolate must be the most beloved. Here is
everyone's favorite cake done Mexican style.
Chocolate Cake
8 Tbs (120 ml) butter
1/2 cup (125 ml) vegetable oil
2 oz (55 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 cups (500 ml) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 ml) baking powder
2 cups (500 ml) sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) buttermilk
2 eggs, beaten
1 tsp (5 ml) cinnamon
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla
Combine the butter, oil, chocolate, and water in a
small saucepan and heat over low heat, stirring
until the chocolate is melted. Combine the
remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir in
the chocolate mixture. Pour into a greased
9x13-inch (22x33 cm) baking pan and bake in a
preheated 350F (180C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes,
until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out
clean. Frost with Mexican Chocolate Icing, below. Serves 8 to 10.
Mexican Chocolate Icing
8 Tbs (120 ml) butter at room temperature
2 oz (55 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
1 lb (450 g) powdered (confectioner's) sugar
1 tsp (5 ml) cinnamon
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped walnuts or pecans
Combine the butter, chocolate, and milk in a small
saucepan and heat over low heat, stirring until the
chocolate has melted. Remove from the heat and stir
in the sugar gradually. Stir in the remaining
ingredients and frost the cake while the icing is
still warm.
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This classic Spanish dessert is a favorite all over
the Spanish-speaking world, and Mexico is no
exception. The basic egg custard can be flavored
with any number of ingredients, and this version is
one you might expect from the birthplace of
chocolate.
Chocolate Custard (Flan de Chocolate)
For the caramel sauce:
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 Tbs (30 ml) water
For the custard:
4 cups (1 L) milk
8 eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
3 Tbs (45 ml) cocoa powder
2 Tbs (30 ml) dark rum (optional)
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
A pinch of salt
To make the caramel sauce, combine the sugar and
water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over
moderate heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
sugar is a dark golden brown. Pour the sugar
carefully (it will be extremely hot) into a 6-cup
(1.5 L) mold or into 6 individual custard cups or
ramekins, tilting the mold or cups to coat the
bottom and sides with the molten sugar. Set aside.
To make the custard, heat the milk until small
bubbles form around the sides of the pan. Remove
from the heat and let cool. Whisk together the
remaining ingredients and stir into the milk. Strain into the mold or custard cups. Place in a
pan filled with enough water to come halfway up the
side of the mold and bake in a preheated 350F (180C)
oven until the tip of a knife inserted in the center
comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool to room
temperature and chill in the refrigerator until
ready to serve. To serve, run the blade of a knife
around the edge of the mold before inverting onto a
serving platter. Serves 6.
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This version of flan is typical of many Mexican
desserts because of the addition of cinnamon. It can
be made in one large mold, or in individual custard
cups. Either way, es muy delicioso.
Flan
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 Tbs (30 ml) water
4 cups (1 L) milk
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
8 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp (2 ml) grated lemon rind (optional)
A pinch of salt
Combine the 1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar and the water in
a small saucepan and cook over moderate heat until
the sugar melts and turns golden brown. Pour this
into a 6-cup (1.5 L) mold (or into 6 individual
ramekins) and tilt to cover the entire bottom of the
mold. In a separate pan, heat the milk until a film
forms on top. Remove from the heat and cool. In a
mixing bowl, beat the eggs and remaining sugar
together. Add the milk and the remaining ingredients
and mix well but not too briskly-you don't want
bubbles in the mixture. Pour into the mold and place
the mold in a large baking dish filled with enough
hot water to reach halfway up the side of the mold.
Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 1 hour,
until the custard is set and a knife inserted in the
middle comes out clean. Cool at room temperature for
1 hour, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours. To
unmold, run a knife around the edge of the mold and
invert onto a serving platter. Serves 6.
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This luscious dessert is the perfect topper to a
Mexican meal. You can make just the pudding, with or
without the sherry, or you can dress it up as I have
here.
Pineapple Pudding (Budín de
Piña)
12 ladyfingers, split horizontally (or pound cake,
sliced 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick)
Apricot jam
2 cups (500 ml) finely chopped fresh (if possible)
or canned pineapple
1/2 cup (125 ml) blanched almonds, ground in a food
processor or blender
4 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry sherry (optional)
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cinnamon
1/2 cup (125 ml) sour cream
1/4 cup (60 ml) toasted slivered almonds
Combine the pineapple, ground almonds, egg yolks,
sugar, half (1/4 cup) of the optional sherry, and
cinnamon in a saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring
constantly, until the sauce has thickened-do not
boil. Set aside to cool. Spread a thin layer of
apricot jam on the ladyfingers or pound cake. Place
half in the bottom of a serving dish and sprinkle
with half the remaining sherry. Spread half the
pineapple mixture on top. Repeat. Chill for at least
one hour, and spread a layer of sour cream on top.
Garnish with the toasted almonds. Serves 4 to 6.
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My standing as the publisher with the most rice
pudding recipes to his credit is undisputed. As
desserts go, they are relatively nutritious, they
have many variations around the world due to their
universal popularity, they're inexpensive, and they
taste great. Do I need more reasons why rice pudding
is among my favorite desserts?
Rice Pudding (Arroz con Leche)
2 cups (500 ml) water
2 inches (5 cm) cinnamon stick
A piece of lemon zest about 2 x 3/4 inches (5 x 2
cm)
1 cup (250 ml) rice
4 cups (1 L) milk
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
A pinch of salt
4 egg yolks
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract
1/4 cup (60 ml) raisins
1 Tbs (15 ml) butter cut into small pieces
Ground cinnamon for garnish
Combine the water, cinnamon stick, and lemon zest in
a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in
the rice, bring back to the boil, reduce the heat to
low, and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Stir in the
milk, sugar, and salt and bring to a simmer. Cook
uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid
begins to thicken, about 20 minutes. Remove from the
heat and discard the cinnamon stick and lemon zest.
Whisk together the egg yolks, vanilla extract, and
some of the hot rice mixture in a small bowl. Stir
the yolk mixture into the rice mixture along with
the raisins. Spread the mixture into a greased
8-inch (20 cm) square baking dish, dot with the
butter, and cook under a preheated broiler until the
top is lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Garnish with
ground cinnamon and serve warm or at room
temperature. Serves 8 to 10.
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There is a long tradition of sweets made from egg
yolks in Spain and Portugal. Egg whites are used to
clarify casks of wine, leaving the wine makers with
an embarrassment of leftover egg yolks. These were
traditionally donated to the local nunnery where the
nuns made them into sweets for sale to the public.
Even though wine production in Mexico is limited,
the tradition of yolk-based sweets introduced by the
Spanish was happily adopted my the locals.
Royal Eggs (Huevos Reales)
2 Tbs (30 ml) raisins
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry sherry
12 egg yolks
2 cups (500 ml) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 cinnamon stick
2 Tbs (30 ml) toasted pine nuts (pignoli)
Combine the raisins and the sherry in a small cup
and allow to steep for at least 30 minutes. Beat the
egg yolks until they make a ribbon. Pour into a
shallow greased pan which is set in a larger pan
partially filled with hot water. Bake in a preheated
350F (180C) oven until the eggs are set, about 20
minutes. Cool to room temperature and cut into cubes
or diamond shapes. Meanwhile combine the sugar,
water, and cinnamon stick in a pot and bring to a
boil over high heat. Boil for 5 minutes, remove the
cinnamon stick, add the egg cubes, and simmer over
very low heat until the egg cubes are saturated with
the syrup. Stir in the raisins and sherry and serve
garnished with pine nuts. Serves 4 to 6.
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These puffy little fritters are reminiscent of New
Orleans' famous beignets.
Sopaipillas
2 cups (500 ml) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (10 ml) baking powder
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable shortening
3/4 cup (180 ml) cold water
Oil for deep frying
Powdered sugar and cinnamon for dusting
Sift the dry ingredients together. Cut in the
shortening with fork until the mixture is the
texture of cornmeal. Add the water gradually to
form a dough. Knead on a lightly floured surface
until smooth. Roll as thin as possible and cut into
3-inch (7 cm) squares. Fry in hot (375F, 190C) oil
until puffed and golden brown on both sides. Drain
on paper towels and dust with powdered sugar and
cinnamon. Makes about 20, to serve 4 to 6.
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This is one of many versions of a traditional
Mexican confection, and they are frequently served
at weddings as the name suggests. They are members
of a class of sweets called polvorones, or
"powdery things," so called because of the dusting
with powdered sugar.
Wedding Cookies (Pastelitos de Boda)
2 cups (500 ml) flour
1/2 cup (125 ml) sifted powdered (confectioner's)
sugar
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped pecans or walnuts
Pinch of salt
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
1 cup (200 g) unsalted butter, softened
Additional powdered sugar for dusting
Combine the flour, sugar, nuts, and salt together in
a mixing bowl. Mix in the vanilla and butter until
the dough forms a ball. Shape the dough into 24
small, round patties and place on a lightly greased
baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven
for 30 minutes, until the cookies are light golden
brown. Dust liberally with powdered sugar. Makes 2
dozen cookies.
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Breakfast & Brunch
(Desayuno)
This is probably as close as we want to get to the
way the Aztecs drank their chocolate unless you want
to forego the honey in favor of a truly bitter
beverage. Use Mexican chocolate (which is already
sweetened and flavored with cinnamon, cloves, and
ground almonds) if you can get it and eliminate the
other ingredients. Otherwise, any unsweetened
chocolate will work.
Hot
Chocolate (Chocolate)
1 cup (250 ml) cold water
1 oz (28 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) honey, or to taste
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract, or to taste
Combine the ingredients in an electric blender and
process until the chocolate is dissolved and the
mixture is frothy. Serves 1.
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This classic Mexican egg dish appears on almost
every menu in Mexico. In the old days, when the
ranch hands would dine on a light breakfast of
coffee and bread when they rose at dawn, this was
frequently served at almuerzo, the second meal of
the day. Traditionally served with a portion of
refried beans, it is hearty enough to get even the
hardest working rancheros through the day.
Huevos Rancheros (Eggs Ranch Style)
4 Tbs (60 ml) vegetable oil
8 to 12 corn tortillas
8 to 12 eggs
Butter
1 recipe tomato sauce (see index)
Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy skillet over
moderate heat and fry the tortillas until limp. Drain on paper towels and place two tortillas, side
by side, on each plate. Fry the eggs in the butter
to your preferred degree of doneness. Place the
eggs (2 per person) on top of the tortillas and top
with tomato sauce. Serve with refried beans. Serves 4 to 6.
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